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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name S 
No name one S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 

Southeast Face  


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Location: 32.43213, -110.79756 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,391
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jul 21, 2014
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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy, Fort Stress, and Sir Clipalot. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.

Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
  • Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
  • Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
  • Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.

Getting There 

Approach the The Fortress using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Route finding hints:

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast Face:
Steel Crazy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 450'   
The Rupley Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Fort Stress   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Tres Frijoles   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 380'   
Gargoyle   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
As You Like It   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 475'   
Quartz Jester   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sir Clipalot   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 240'   
Browse More Classics in Southeast Face

Featured Route For Southeast Face
Tom Lind took this photo as I'm sorting out the ro...

Steel Crazy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Southeast Face
Steel Crazy starts up the face near the left end of the Fortress. Look for the well-bolted line just left of a large corner.Pitch 1: Pumpy climbing up and over small overhang (crux?)to easier climbing above. Continue up easier terrain, slightly runout to sloping ledge. Scary, thin moves up steep face past more bolts lead to small sea of chickenheads. Follow these to two-bolt belay on huge ledge.Pitch 2: From the belay ledge, Steel Crazy follows the right of two bolted lines. Fun 5.9 climbi...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Southeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climbers (some gal and guy on what I belie...
Unknown climbers (some gal and guy on what I belie...
Greg leading the way on the first pitch of Sir Cli...
Greg leading the way on the first pitch of Sir Cli...
Desperate climbing aside, Greg getting another imp...
Desperate climbing aside, Greg getting another imp...

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