Greg high on Quartz Jester
The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy
, Fort Stress
, and Sir Clipalot
. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.
Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
- Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
- Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
- Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.
Approach the The Fortress
using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.
Route finding hints:
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Southeast Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast Face:
Steel Crazy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Fort Stress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Gargoyle 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Sir Clipalot 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Chapalot 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Southeast Face
The Rupley Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Southeast Face
The Rupley Route is a great mixed face and crack line that runs all the way up the Fortress. Although rated a moderate 5.9, the short crux face bit on first pitch was a little surprising in it's difficulty. It felt harder to me than some of the 10's at Munchkin Wall. Having said that, the bolts are pretty close together and you can always yard on the draws to get through the hard part if you get stuck.The route starts kinda left-middle at the base of the south face. The route Steel Crazy starts ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Local Information for Southeast Face
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