Greg high on Quartz Jester
The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy
, Fort Stress
, and Sir Clipalot
. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.
Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
- Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
- Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
- Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.
Approach the The Fortress
using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.
Route finding hints:
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Southeast Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast Face:
Steel Crazy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Fort Stress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Gargoyle 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Sir Clipalot 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Chapalot 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For Southeast Face
Fort Stress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Southeast Face
This route is long, fun, reasonably safe, high, sustained and exposed. It's one of the best on the mountain with super solid rock...go climb it!As you're hiking down to the base of The Fortress, you'll pass a narrow slot between a large boulder and the main wall with a large pine tree and ledge on the other side. Slipping through here will deposit you at the start of the route's second pitch, otherwise, continue hiking down another 100' or so to the actual start.P1: 80ft. 5.9 Follow the bolts ov...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Local Information for Southeast Face
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