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I would have given this route one star last year, probably because I climbed it by accident and was a bit disappointed in my route finding failure on Lost in Space. In retrospect, however, it is a good route well worth doing in its own right. Ascending the obvious Southeast flank of Sheeps' Nose (right of Lost in Space) in 4 or 5 pitches, this route will challenge you with moderate routfinding issues, significant but generally easy runout sections, a well-protected 5.8d crux, and few loose rocks here and there. Your reward is outstanding position, sections of very good climbing, and a spectacular summit.
P1-2: Many variations. Keep walking right from the start of Lost in Space, and find the path of least resistance moving up to the small roof break. Or, you can take the first pitch of Lost in Space, climb the heavily chalked crack above the belay, and traverse straight right past a good-sized chickenhead. Instead of moving up the arete, keep traversing right until you find a funky belay in a corner underneath the small roof.
P3: Keep traversing right about 20 feet (difficult pro but easy), until you reach a small break in the roof. Turn the roof (5.4), and ascend discontinuous cracks up the nice slab above (5.7). An obvious, if small ledge will appear just when you need it most. Belay on 3 fixed pins in the shallow dihedral above this ledge.
P4: Ascend the shallow dihedral above the belay (crux, especially if wet), and keep going on easy but runout terrain until you run out of rope and must belay. At this point you should be just to the left of the obvious and deep gully that bisects the Southeast face proper.
P5: Many options, all a bit runout. The easiest way probably goes at no more than 5.4 up the slabs. We moved slightly left from the line of least resistance, taking a short hand and finger crack on an overhanging, giant "boulder" (5.9). Easy scramble from here to the top, although you may have to simulclimb a bit or belay.
Enjoy the summit. Descend as indicated in the Lost in Space route description.
Standard rack. Some longer slings will make the belay at the top of the third pitch more comfortable.
Start of the route
End of the Climb
end of 2nd pitch
getting ready for the 2nd pitch
When climbing the first pitch, why wouldn't you ta...
|Comments on Southeast Face
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2007
This route was fun. P.W. and I climbed this weekend and had a great time. Route finding is not bad, and the only difficulty was a little water on the crux. To avoid the water, I just climbed the runout face to the right for about 20 feet and got back to the crack. 1 long pitch (just under 200') and 2 shorter pitches is all it took us. About 1 hour 20 minutes from base to summit.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2007
The first ascent of this route was done by Harvey Carter in the 70s.