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The Candle
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Southeast Corner T 

Southeast Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Joe Olonia, Frank White, late 1960s
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 6, 2013

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Description 

For an easy 1-pitch climb in the Sandias, the SE Corner (SE Ridge) has it all: great exposure, fun moves, and a wonderful summit. (Seriously. I can't think of many individual pitches 5.7 or under in the Sandias that are as good as this one.)

From the west side of the Cake and Candle, climb up to the notch between the two towers. The Candle is to your left. Start on the Candle by hand traversing to its right-hand edge. Follow the crack system on the exposed arete, passing 2 pitons. There are a couple of loose blocks to be careful with. An awkward mantle near the top is the crux, maybe a little hard for the grade and hard to climb with dignity. Easy from there to the tiny summit. Downclimb the last 10' to the rappel anchor.

Rappel down the south face from a slung block (90'). [My friend tell me that the Candle now has a bolted anchor, and some bolts on the route, but I have not personally checked this out. -Added by George Aug 2015.]

Protection 

Standard rack to 3" or 4". [May be all bolted or mostly bolted now, according to a friend of mine. Aug 2015]


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By Margie
2 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is the view you get of the Candle while hikin...
This is the view you get of the Candle while hiking down the talus field

I thought this route was fun, but the commitment level involved was higher than I thought it would be based on the description. Be prepared for a 1.5 hour approach, because coming down the (steep) hill and across the talus takes a while. Also, I didn't feel comfortable scrambling up to the notch because of the incredibly loose rock in the gully (maybe I missed something), so we ended up using a rope to get up there. I was surprised to find that almost the entire route was bolted (I only placed one piece, a 0.5 cam, on the whole pitch). The webbing that has been used in the past for rappelling was badly sun-damaged, so I used my own cordelette and added a second non-locking carabiner for the rappel. Finally, the climbing felt harder than 5.6...maybe more like 5.8. I thought the route was fun, and the exposure was incredible; but be prepared to hike quite a bit for a single pitch of climbing.
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