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The Candle
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Southeast Corner T 

Southeast Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Joe Olonia, Frank White, late 1960s
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 6, 2013

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Description 

For an easy 1-pitch climb in the Sandias, the SE Corner (SE Ridge) has it all: great exposure, fun moves, and a wonderful summit. (Seriously. I can't think of many individual pitches 5.7 or under in the Sandias that are as good as this one.)

From the west side of the Cake and Candle, climb up to the notch between the two towers. The Candle is to your left. Start on the Candle by hand traversing to its right-hand edge. Follow the crack system on the exposed arete, passing 2 pitons. There are a couple of loose blocks to be careful with. An awkward mantle near the top is the crux, maybe a little hard for the grade and hard to climb with dignity. Easy from there to the tiny summit. Downclimb the last 10' to the rappel anchor.

Rappel down the south face from a slung block (90').


Protection 

Standard rack to 3" or 4".



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