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Southeast Corner Rock Climbing
Routes in Southeast Corner
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A Touch Too Much T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Backstage Pass T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bee Sting Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Trivia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cardon's Rib T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Dislocated Shoulder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Don't Think Twice T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dufty's Popoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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General Admission T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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H&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hero Pendulum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Kauffman-Cardon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ladybug T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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M&M T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R & R T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rear Entry T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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S&M S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skylab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skyline Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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T&T T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tomato That Ate Cleveland, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Touch and Go T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trouble Ahead, Trouble Behind T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Worrell's Thicket T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 1,801 ft |
| GPS: |
38.83343, -79.36659 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 53,797 total · 350/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Aug 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description, Access and Descent Routes
From the book: "The Southeast Corner rises in a gigantic triangle, extending north from the edge of the South End. All of the routes on the Southeast Corner end on the southern part of Lower Broadway Ledge."
The Southeast Corner really could be described as the area from Lower Skyline Direct all the way up to the corner that intersects with Lower Broadway Ledge (below Highway To Hell..which is technically on a 'Middle Broadway Ledge'). Access to climbs beyond Worrell's Thicket can be a bit tricky. Additionally, there has been some route development going on in this area and some really nice, quality routes have gone up.
To descend, find the rap rings atop Bee Sting Corner. They're on a ledge close to one of the larger pine trees on Lower Broadway Ledge/SE Corner. From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left.
Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge, rapping with a 60m rope may or may not reach the ground. Your best bet is to rap going down the line of Ladybug off the ledge, which is the small, hanging left-facing corner. Stay LEFT of this corner! If you go straight back off the K-C ledge and over the bulge you'll likely be short.
Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.
One 70m rope from Bee Sting Corner WILL get you to either the rap station on the Kauffman-Cardon ledge OR the station below that to the left.
Bottom line: 60m rope, 2 or 3 rappels. 70m rope, 2 rappels. Two 60m ropes, 1 rappel. Not all 60m ropes are created equal so it's a good idea to know just how long your 60m rope really is...TIE KNOTS IN YOUR ENDS!
Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there.
The Southeast Corner really could be described as the area from Lower Skyline Direct all the way up to the corner that intersects with Lower Broadway Ledge (below Highway To Hell..which is technically on a 'Middle Broadway Ledge'). Access to climbs beyond Worrell's Thicket can be a bit tricky. Additionally, there has been some route development going on in this area and some really nice, quality routes have gone up.
To descend, find the rap rings atop Bee Sting Corner. They're on a ledge close to one of the larger pine trees on Lower Broadway Ledge/SE Corner. From here with a 60m rope you can rap down to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and another set of rap rings. From the K-C rings, rap down to a third set of rings about 20' down and to climbers left.
Caution! From the shuts on Kauffman-Cardon ledge, rapping with a 60m rope may or may not reach the ground. Your best bet is to rap going down the line of Ladybug off the ledge, which is the small, hanging left-facing corner. Stay LEFT of this corner! If you go straight back off the K-C ledge and over the bulge you'll likely be short.
Two 60m ropes tied together will hit the base from Bee Sting Corner.
One 70m rope from Bee Sting Corner WILL get you to either the rap station on the Kauffman-Cardon ledge OR the station below that to the left.
Bottom line: 60m rope, 2 or 3 rappels. 70m rope, 2 rappels. Two 60m ropes, 1 rappel. Not all 60m ropes are created equal so it's a good idea to know just how long your 60m rope really is...TIE KNOTS IN YOUR ENDS!
Alternatively, you can scramble up and over the rocks that will be directly in front of you (west) when topping out Dufty's Popoff or Bee Sting Corner (to the left when you top out on Skyline Traverse). On the other side of these you can walk around to Luncheon Ledge and then either walk all the way down the Stairmaster or to the top of Ecstasy Junior and rap down from there.
Getting There
Walk up the road from the parking lot and pass the West Face Trail. Look for the sign on the left for the South End and start up the stone step trail. Instead of turning left and heading to the South End, stay right and follow the trail up; it will wind over to the right and then split, with the right fork going to the East Face Trail and the left fork going to the Southeast Corner. Turn left. Follow the steps up and make a sharp right to stay on the trail and up more steps. At the top of the steps you're in the vicinity of Worrell's Thicket and the start of T&T, R&R, and Skyline Traverse.
There are a few other routes that begin further up the hill (Backstage Pass, Lost and Found, etc). For these you will need to use the "social trail" along the base of the Southeast Corner here and go up the hill.
If you are descending in the Skyline Area please stay on the trail and DO NOT descend the steep hill below Skyline Traverse. We've worked very hard to establish a good trail to access the area...please use it!
There are a few other routes that begin further up the hill (Backstage Pass, Lost and Found, etc). For these you will need to use the "social trail" along the base of the Southeast Corner here and go up the hill.
If you are descending in the Skyline Area please stay on the trail and DO NOT descend the steep hill below Skyline Traverse. We've worked very hard to establish a good trail to access the area...please use it!
Classic Climbing Routes at Southeast Corner
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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