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Southeast Chimney Route 

Southeast Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b A1 PG13

   
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b A1 [details]
FA: Huntley Ingalls, Steve Komito, Rick Horn
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jun 18, 2009
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Description 

Classic 1962 route. The first 2 pitches are quality. The 3rd pitch follows an old bolt ladder to the summit.
P1: Start the route with a 5.9 move followed by some easy climbing moving left that leads to a steep fingertip crack that offers some nice stemming. Maybe of touch of 5.9+ or easy 5.10 during the stemming phase. This leads to the ability to get into the offwidth on the right, which may be the variation first climbed by Jim Dunn, Billy Westbay, and Stewart Green in 1971. Continue up this 5.9 - 5.10 offwidth to a nice ledge and belay.
P2: Move right and do an awkward move to reach another OW/squeeze chimney. Follow this up to a steep, but easy roof that gets you to the saddle.
P3: Climb the old bolt ladder.


Location 

The SE chimney is easy to find. Easier than the talus cone.
Use caution on the descent. The second and subsequent folks to rappel need to USE EXTRA CAUTION to avoid knocking any loose debris down onto the climber(s) on the saddle. It is a small stance, and direct hits are almost guaranteed. I took one. Lucky it didn't break my femur. Stars . . . .


Protection 

Standard desert rack, plus some extra wide gear. You might want to bring a couple of tricks in case the bolt ladder is in poor shape/missing some gear.



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By Stewart M. Green
Jun 21, 2009

The short overhanging off-width on the first pitch or second, depending on where you belay, was done by Jim Dunn, Bill Westbay, and myself during the sixth ascent of the tower in November 1971. We called it 5.9+. It was unprotected then.