This is agood route for taking beginners on. Climb the East bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East bench. Stem up and right to reach the broad groove which faces SW. Climb up and into this, clipping a single bolt on the way to the top.
This is an old rusted anchor and should be replaced. Some of the leaders here have probably not developed the sense of good versus bad gear.
It's a nice pitch, and is not too much independent climbing, but for the beginning 5.5 leader is probably a bit hairy if they realize that the bolt is no good. Still, exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.
A few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes. + 1 QD for clipping a nasty old bolt.
|Comments on Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle)
Jun 2, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
This route is pretty nice combined with the dihedral route. The description mentions a "nasty old bolt". I second that. This bolt is pretty ugly and rusted. However, there is good pro for most of it. Also, the slings on the east bench seemed to be pretty sun baked and old. Rapping off the big bolt at the far east end of the chimney might be safer.
From: Superior, CO
Jun 25, 2012
The bolt was replaced last year. I was with Ron Olsen who actually replaced it, and the old one was a 1 inch long, 1/4 inch bolt!