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The VC

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Blue Lukegoon NS 
Bluecelee 
Bucket Head 
Charlie Chang RS 
Death Quiver 
Drive On 
Foot Fist Way 
Fortune Cookie 
Ho Chi Minh Rail 
Hot Cock 
Huck Norris 
Hung Fu RS 
I Speak Crussian 
Jungle Rot NS 
Khmer Rouge NS 
Love You Long Time 
Man China 
Map of Japan 
Me So Horny 
Mobile Gorilla Force NS 
Mock Duck RS 
Mogo Chaji 
Mr. Tan Man 
Ninja Please 
Pinky Pinky 
Ride the Snake RS 
Slicky Boy NS 
So Gone Pocket Throw 
Soft Scrub RS 
Steep & Cheap 
Thin Red Line 
Trench Foot NS 
Well Hung Fu RS 
Whoreizontal 
Zipper Head 

The VC

Submitted By: Mikel Cronin on Oct 24, 2008
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker
Views: 794 page views

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Road open May 15- Dec 15

BETA PHOTO: TOPO. Main wall far right side.


Description 

The VC is in a narrow limestone canyon. Sun and shade are found at all times of the day. The canyon is a very delicate area so tread lightly and respect it. Many local people hike the canyon and would not appreciate a mess. Make sure you pack out everything you bring, including TP! Rattlesnakes have been seen! Many of the upper grades are open for discussion.


Getting There 

Take Sheridan Lake road west out of Rapid City. You will come to a convenience store on the corner of Sheridan Lake Road and Dunsmore, go 2.1 miles until you come to Norsemen Lane on the north side of the road. Take this road for about 100yards until you go through a NFS gate (open May 15-Dec 15). The NFS road you come to is #150. Start you mileage at this point. Stay on the well traveled dirt road. You will come to a Y at spur road 1D mile 1.3, take a left at this Y. Continue on the main road until mile 1.7. This is the 1E road that you turn right on. The 1E sign is on the left side of the intersection. Follow 1E past many rubber water bars until you hit an open meadow at 2.7. Stay on the same well traveled path for about 100yrds then you will come to a Y with the right leg less obvious than the left. Stay left on this road until you hit mile 3.2. Here is where you must make the decision to continue with you vehicle or walk the remaining .5 mile to the trail. The worst part of the last .5 mile is at mile 3.2 with some rocks to go over/around. If you have a full size truck you can make it but the trail gets a little tight around a few trees. Full size truck with camper not going to make it. Subaru outback and above no problem with clearance anything below go at your own risk. If you decide to drive the last .5 miles park at 3.7 in the saddle. Trail starts at this saddle and drops into the canyon. When you enter the canyon head down stream until you get to the walls.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The VC:
Huck Norris   Easy 5th     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Trench Foot NS   5.9     Sport, 70 feet   
Mock Duck RS   5.10-     Sport, 55 feet   
Charlie Chang RS   5.11a     Sport, 55 feet   
Blue Lukegoon NS   5.11a/b     Sport, 60 feet   
Hot Cock   5.11+     Sport, 80 feet   
Love You Long Time   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   
Mogo Chaji   5.12a/b     Sport, 70 feet   
Map of Japan   5.12a/b     Sport, 75 feet   
Bucket Head   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   
Me So Horny   5.12c     Sport, 80 feet   
Pinky Pinky   5.12d     Sport, 85 feet   
Well Hung Fu RS   5.13a     Sport, 70 feet   
Foot Fist Way   5.13a     Sport, 80 feet   
Whoreizontal   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Steep & Cheap   5.13a     Sport, 80 feet   
Ho Chi Minh Rail   5.13b     Sport, 80 feet   
Ninja Please   5.13b     Sport, 80 feet   
Mr. Tan Man   5.13c     Sport, 60 feet   
Thin Red Line   5.13c     Sport, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in The VC

Featured Route For The VC
;

So Gone Pocket Throw 5.12-  SD : The VC
Climb up to the first roof and over to reach a juggy ledge. Do a tricky part to get into a good pocket in another roof, and then do a throw to a jug pocket. Then finish on sloppy crimps.This grade is also up for review. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD


Photos of The VC Slideshow Add Photo
VC main wall from above.

VC main wall from above.

TOPO North Side

BETA PHOTO: TOPO North Side

Sweet Limestone <br />Thanks for the Tour!!

Sweet Limestone
Thanks for the Tour!!


Cloudviel athlete Luke Kretchsmar<br />on me so horny

Cloudviel athlete Luke Kretchsmar
on me so horny


slicky boy?

slicky boy?

The "saddle" at mile 3.7 to park.  Note rock cairn that marks the trail down.

BETA PHOTO: The "saddle" at mile 3.7 to park. Note rock cairn...

Pretty nice scenery down there!

Pretty nice scenery down there!

Jay in the VC, with the main wall on the right.

Jay in the VC, with the main wall on the right.

Mike Cronin belayed by Luke K on a new 5.12.

Mike Cronin belayed by Luke K on a new 5.12.

vc middle wall update.

BETA PHOTO: vc middle wall update.

vc wall update

BETA PHOTO: vc wall update

vc north walls

BETA PHOTO: vc north walls

lower canyon.

lower canyon.

china wall.

china wall.

china wall.

china wall.

Opposite of the Main Wall.<br />Routes Go Left to Right. Colors represent the color of draws that protect each crux. <br />Death Quiver(5.11d)<br />Zipper Head(5.12a)<br />So Gone Pocket Throw(5.12-)<br />This Is My Route, There Are Many Like It, But This One Is Mine(project...)<br />Drive On(5.12b)<br />All grades are open for review, and will be updated when solid.    -9.18.09

BETA PHOTO: Opposite of the Main Wall.
Routes Go Left to Right...


Opposite of the Main Wall. Routes Go from left to right, colors resemble the color of carabiners that protect each ones crux...<br />So Gone Pocket Throw (5.12-)<br />This Is My Route, There Are Many Like It, But This One Is Mine(project...)<br />Drive On (5.12b)<br />Bukkaki (project...)<br />All grades are open for review, and will be updated when they are solid.   -9.18.09

BETA PHOTO: Opposite of the Main Wall. Routes Go from left to ...


Comments on The VC Add Comment
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By Mikel Cronin
Nov 24, 2008

For those people that do or are wanting to climbing in the VC now or in the future this is for you. The NFS is in the process of making an offroad use plan for the Black Hills. Along with this plan are going to be some road closures. The NFS has a few different options that they can go with. One of those options could include closing FS road 150 which is the access road to the VC. After talking to one of the people on the board for the NFS I was told that we need to write letters to the NFS. The letters are not to be form type letter. Each individual needs to write their own version of why the road should stay open. I have a rough outline of things that the letters should hit on. I am not going to post those here. Anyone interested in writing a letter can email me at routebolter@hotmail.com for the key terms that need to be said. These letters do not need to be from SD residents. So anybody that has and will use the area needs to get involved. If this road closes permanetly the hike into the VC will be long. Lets all help with keeping the road to the VC open. I do not have the address to send them at this time. When I get that I will let all know. Or you can send the letter to me via mail and I will make sure the letters get in the correct hands.

By Mikel Cronin
Jan 28, 2009

To all whom care
Here is the most current info I have on the possible rd 150 closure.
The rough draft is being written up at this time. It is supposed to be out in late Feb or early March. That draft will be availabe to the public at that time. In the back of that draft there will be a page with a comment section and a self addressed envelope to send it in. Some people will get them in the mail, if you do not you can pick them up at the USFS office in your area. I guess you can pick a couple extras up for others also. When I find out more I will post it.
Mike

By Mikel Cronin
Jan 31, 2009

Road 150 update
The projected date of the off road use plan to be out for public comment is Feb 27th. From what I have found out is that road 150 is proposed to say open in all the drafts, but 1E spur road is proposed to be closed in all but proposal C, that is the one with the big off road use section. Nothing is set in stone so when the draft comes out please comment to keep the 150 1E open. If that closed is could add about 1 mile to the hike. 150 is looking like it will stay a seasonal closure. I will keep you informed as I get more info.

By Mikel Cronin
Mar 7, 2009

Hello everyone...just a quick reminder that climbers will be affected by changes made by this travel plan. Access to some of the crags around the area will require a longer walk once roads are closed. We should go to these meetings and voice our concerns. Contact Mike Cronin for specifics on how the plan will affect us.

Forest Service to Release Draft Motorized Travel Plans

Custer, SD – Forest Service officials will hold public meetings in March to familiarize the public with new draft plans for motorized travel management on the Black Hills National Forest.

The meetings are scheduled for two hours each, 6-8pm, March 9, 10, 11 & 12.

Meeting attendees will hear a presentation and join Forest Service personnel who will help people to get to know the documents. Detailed maps illustrate five alternative approaches to motorized travel in the Forest. The public will be able to participate in a question and answer period, officials said.

Forest Supervisor Craig Bobzien said the alternatives reflect hundreds of public comments gathered at Forest Service meetings and meetings hosted by the Black Hills National Forest Advisory Board, a citizen advisory board appointed by the Secretary of Agriculture to advise the Forest Service on Forest management.

The Forest Service has prepared a Draft Environmental Impact Statement with five alternative approaches for motorized travel management in the Black Hills National Forest for further review and further comment, Bobzien said.

“We will have public comments on the alternatives presented in the Draft EIS to further refine alternatives in the Final EIS,” he said.

The public will have 45 days during the official comment period to comment on the proposals, beginning March 20 and ending on May 4. Officials said people should comment during the formal comment period because of legal requirements in the National Environmental Policy Act process.

“People will have an opportunity to listen, look, and ask questions, and then to tell us what they think,” said Frank Carroll, forest planner. Carroll said the formal public meetings will be followed by individual ranger district meetings that will be announced later in March.

Bobzien said he intends to make a final decision and select an alternative in late 2009. The Forest Service will publish a Motor Vehicle Use Map implementing the decision in 2010.

Schedule:
Monday, March 9: 6pm – 8pm
Sundance, WY
Crook County Courthouse
Tuesday, March 10: 6pm-8pm -
Spearfish, SD
Holiday Inn Express
Wednesday, March 11: 6pm-8pm -
Rapid City, SD
Ramkota Hotel
Thursday, March 12: 6pm-8pm -
Custer, SD
Crazy Horse Memorial

For more information call travel planner Tom Willems or Forest Planner Frank Carroll at 605-673-9200 or visit the Black Hills National Forest website at www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills

-30-


Frank Carroll
Planning & Public Affairs Staff
Black Hills National Forest
1019 N. 5th Street
Custer, SD 57701
(605) 673-9216 Work
(605) 673-5958 Home
(605) 673-1504 Cell
Fcarroll@fs.fed.us
Fcarrolls1@msn.com

By Mikel Cronin
Mar 24, 2009

March 23, 2009

RE: Proposed closure of Forest Service Road 150/1E near Rapid City, SD.

To Whom It May Concern:

This letter is a request for support in regards to the USFS Travel Management Plan (TMP) for the Black Hills National Forest. The TMP proposes that Forest Service Road 150/1E be closed. Road 150/1E is the only public access to Victoria Canyon (VC). Victoria Canyon is approximately 1 mile from Rapid City and holds 40+ sport climbing routes on steep limestone.
The climbers of the Black Hills are asking you to submit comments in support of leaving Forest Service Road 150/1E open to vehicle access. Without more public support, this very unique rock climbing area will be lost due to lack of public access.

The following are some of the reasons we believe Forest Service Road 150/1E needs to remain open to public access:

1. Victoria Canyon has been used since the middle 1980’s for roped rock climbing and bouldering.
2. Due to the location of Victoria Canyon, it will be land locked if 150/1E is closed. The access from the Dark Canyon side of Victoria Canyon is all private and 150/1E is the only other access by motorized travel. Due to the Victoria Lake Road Closure that was established in the past years, all other roads that could access Victoria Canyon are already closed.
3. All types of recreation that take place in Victoria Canyon (hiking, climbing, bouldering, kayaking) are low impact and non-motorized.
4. Victoria Canyon is one of the closest rock climbing areas to Rapid City. Falling Rock climbing area takes a lot of impact due to its close location to Rapid City. Keeping road 150/1E open will help disperse recreational impact on one area.

Below are instructions on how to comment, what to include, and where to send your comments. If you have prior experience with this type of issue please feel free to add anything that you think might help this cause. The climbers of the Black Hills want to thank you for taking the time to help keep access to Victoria Canyon open to the public. Thank you!

Sincerely,


Mike Cronin





How to comment on the Travel Management Plan Draft Environmental Impact Statement (DEIS)
What you should know about making a comment…
• For your comments to receive the consideration they deserve, we must receive them by May 4, 2009.
• Your comment should include:
o Name, address, telephone number and organization (if applicable)
o Title of the document you are commenting on
o Specific facts and supporting reasons for the responsible official to consider
• Comments that are concise and specific are less likely to be misunderstood and are of greater value when being considered. Recommendations about specific roads, trails, or issues and the rationale are most useful.
• Form letters and petitions are acceptable, but be aware that the Forest Service will evaluate the content of individual comments rather than the quantity of comments received supporting a particular view.
• Comments, names and addresses received on this proposal will be part of the public record and may be included in the final EIS and available to anyone who requests to see them.
We look forward to your comments…
Comments can be delivered in many ways, but they must be in writing (paper or
electronic) and must be received by May 4, 2009.

Send Comments to:
BHNF Travel Mgmt Plan DEIS P.O. Box 162909 Sacramento, CA 95816-2909
E-mail to: BHNFcomments@fscomments.org
Fax to: 916-456-6724

By Mikel Cronin
Mar 29, 2009

Road 150/1E update
I went to the NFS open house on Sat morning and met with the rangers about the road closure. Once I mentioned the road I was concerned about they new what I was talking about due to the letters that they have been getting. They seemed to be very receptive to our cause. What this showed was keep the letters coming.
Mike

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 27, 2009

The "saddle" to park at is at mile 3.7. I will post photos when I get back from this road trip. Good directions. AWESOME place!!! Thanks Mike and Luke for the personal beta and posting stuff up here, and all the HARD WORK!!! This place is a mini Spearfish Canyon that is even cooler IMHO-- superb routes with amazing holds and features. I would highly recommend a high clearance 4WD vehicle if you plan to dive the full way to the saddle. Otherwise park in the end of the clearing and walk the extra 10 minutes. It is absolutely worth it. Follow the trail down by the rock cairn. After about 50 years it forks, go left.

By crimpnasty
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 15, 2009

Does the VC get decent temps in July/August? Climbable in the rain?