South Seas 

BEWARE, BEWARE, BEWARE!!!!!!! Some one is chopping routes of their bolts in the Rushmore Area. Ron Yahne and I have been diligently replacing bad bolts and anchors for the last three years in the Rushmore area to make the area SAFE. We are now discontinuing our bolt replacement and Anchor replacement program. We WILL NOT replace or repair any bolts or anchors. Apparently someone doesn't like the bolts there. But beware, THERE ARE ALOT OF BAD BOLTS AND ANCHORS in the Rushmore area that still needs to be replaced. Someone else can do them or the person that has recently chopped some routes can go back and replace the ones he removed. Climb at your own risk and don't DIE cause of someone else removing routes.RUSHMORE IS BECOMING A DANGEROUS PLACE TO CLIMB!!!!!!!!!

Bob - Please don't let the actions of (a few) others alter the good work you are doing to keep all climbers safe. Most of us appreciate running into a brand new bolt (where a 1/4" one once 'stood')!

If you would like assistance in your rebolting project (and I really hope you decide to continue) please contact the American Safe Climbing association.See if they can assist you with funding, etc.

Angela ~~

"Satisfaction lies in the effort, not in the attainment. Full effort is full victory." - Gandhi



"If you have a rebolting project that needs help, or if you have any comments or Suggestions for the ASCA please contact us at:

American Safe Climbing AssociationPO Box 1814, Bishop, CA 93515(650) 843 1473Website: www.safeclimbing.org/E-mail: greg@safeclimbing.org "

Any details on what has been chopped?

Arch,Don't let a few closed minded individuals sway you from what you have been doing. The work you, Ron and others have done is welcomed by 99.9% of the local climbing community.Bolt replacement and new routing are both gloriless and thankless tasks.Most climbers are not willing to invest in rebolting but will be quick to whine when they clip into a questionable bolt.Bolt replacement is each and every climbers responsibility... End of matter.No one individual should ever feel it to be his sole finacial responsibilty to rebolt any route.The Black Hills Climbers Coalition has plenty of extra funds but is not willing to donate to rebolting at this point.I have brought up the issue at several meetings only to have the issue sidelined.I disagree with the addition of new bolts on existing routes unless the first ascentionist agrees in an effort to keep harmony in our fractious community.Here is a challenge to each and every climber out there... Each and every time you start to talk smack about another climber set aside one dollar for bolt replacement.There is a a collection jar at Adventure Sports in Rapid City.If you are honest with yourself you will just go drop a twenty dollar bill in the jar right now.The time has come for the Black Hills Climbing Community to grow up, quite bickering and become a proactive community!Keep on crankin!"The Dakota Kid"

I agree wholeheartedly with the above comment- your efforts do not go unnoticed. I for one am VERY appreciative for these safer bolts and anchors, and I think I speak for the majority when I say we all are- keep up the good work, if you would like any help, let me know!

There seems to be a number of new climbs in South Seas (Squirrel Alley). Does anyone have any info related to these new routes? Thanks Busse

The bolts were replaced on "The Pelican's Dyke" and "Anaphylactic Shock" this summer. Enjoy! Your BHCC monies at work.

I just wanted to let everyone know that I've started working on the Black Hills Climbers Coalition website. My big contribution thus far is a page that lists out all the routes that have been repaired to date and a page that lists routes that are slated to be repaired. From this page I have set up a form that you can fill out to let us know what routes you want repaired first and what routes you would like to see added to the list. All this can be accessed from the "route repair" link at the top of the page. Here is the web address www.bhclimbers.com/Check it out!Duane Martenson

I just wanted to let everyone know that I've returned from my summer travels and I'm back to updating the coalition's website. Go to www.bhclimbers.com to check it out. If you have any info you would like me to post email me at duaneandcherrie@hotmail.com. Put something about the Coalition web site in the subject line of the email so I don't delete your mail thinking it's spam.Duane

To ask a question first posed by Mr. Busse: Is there any information on the new routes in Squirrel Alley? There are some really fun routes there, and I appreciate whoever put in the effort to place them.Aaron

A 9 not to be take lightly in my opinion. Best be very solid at the grade for this one.