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S Dakota
> Needles Of Rush…
> Mt Rushmore Nat…
> Magna Carta
> Marker
> Middle Marker Area
Weird Water
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.7 from 112
votes
Routes in Middle Marker Area
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[Redacted] S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Stahl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IO S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Jamais Vu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Kuiper Cruise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lux Prima T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Make Believe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pluto's Playground S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Road S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weird Dripper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Mike Engle-1985 Ground Up |
| Page Views: | 11,945 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on May 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
A great, long climb. Incredible moves, incredible position. This route summits the main rock in the Marker formation. Gets my vote for the best 5.7 in Rushmore!
Finding this route the first time around can be a bit of a chore... Follow directions to the route 'Star Dancer'. As you're looking at the rock, scramble up to the right, passing the first gully on the left, into a small opening / grassy area, and continue to the next gully on the left. At the top of this gully are some large blocks / chockstones.
After surmounting the blocks, continue on to the right until just past the chimney on left (the Gilson Chimney). The various starts for Weird Water begin here. The variations on the start range from 5.2 (traversing up and right to the main line - 2 bolts) to 5.10 (direct start with a couple bolts). The line I'll describe is the trad start and keeps the entire route at 5.7.
After scoping out the direct start, look to the finger-type crack a couple feet to the right. Climb the crack, protecting to your comfort level (stoppers work well). The crack ends at a small shelf after about 25'. I found a nice placement for a 1" cam at the back of the small shelf.
From the shelf, pick out the biggest crystals and move left and up to the first bolt. I found these moves to be a bit nervy. From that point on, continue from bolt to bolt, being careful to follow the bolt line as it moves to the right (direct up the water streak is 'Weird Dripper'). If you pick a direct line between each bolt you can make this climb much more difficult.
After finally reaching the top you'll find a small summit and a two bolt anchor. Enjoy the views, tie your ropes together, and rap down.
Finding this route the first time around can be a bit of a chore... Follow directions to the route 'Star Dancer'. As you're looking at the rock, scramble up to the right, passing the first gully on the left, into a small opening / grassy area, and continue to the next gully on the left. At the top of this gully are some large blocks / chockstones.
After surmounting the blocks, continue on to the right until just past the chimney on left (the Gilson Chimney). The various starts for Weird Water begin here. The variations on the start range from 5.2 (traversing up and right to the main line - 2 bolts) to 5.10 (direct start with a couple bolts). The line I'll describe is the trad start and keeps the entire route at 5.7.
After scoping out the direct start, look to the finger-type crack a couple feet to the right. Climb the crack, protecting to your comfort level (stoppers work well). The crack ends at a small shelf after about 25'. I found a nice placement for a 1" cam at the back of the small shelf.
From the shelf, pick out the biggest crystals and move left and up to the first bolt. I found these moves to be a bit nervy. From that point on, continue from bolt to bolt, being careful to follow the bolt line as it moves to the right (direct up the water streak is 'Weird Dripper'). If you pick a direct line between each bolt you can make this climb much more difficult.
After finally reaching the top you'll find a small summit and a two bolt anchor. Enjoy the views, tie your ropes together, and rap down.
Photos
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