This climb starts at the high point between Aquarium rock and Icehouse rock. This is easily reached by scrambling uphill on the southwest side of the formation.
Pitch 1: Climb a right leaning crack/flake to an obvious large ledge on the south side.
Pitch 2: Traverse right to reach a low angle chimney. If you're squeemish, this traverse can be protected by a medium nut and/or alien. When you get to the chimney, climb the face placing pro in the chimney when possible. Another ledge is reached at which a belay can be set if desired. Otherwise, traverse to the right again and head up when the climbing looks easy. This last section is runout but the climbing is very easy.
Descent: Getting off the top requires a short downclimb to the east to reach a ledge with rappel bolts. A single rope will just get you to the ground on the north side of the rock.
Protection
Standard rack will do, thought you probably won't use much of it.
I agree about the anchors. We tied of a big nob in order to belay down to the rap. It's worth noting there is some fun toproping below the rap anchor (or lead climbing if your BOLD!). Just don't get in the way of others who might want to descend from the top.
The top toping that is referred to is actually an old route that is known as "The Pump" since all good aquiriums have a pump. As you rappel down look toyour right at a small seam you will see an old ring iron piton.
Actually, a 50 meter rope will still get you to the ground, a little rope stretch and a little push to swing yourself in the uphill direction and your toes should touch the ground.
Isn't it amazing that someone was able to do this without the consensus of the coalition!?
I would like to thank whoever placed the new anchors at the top of the first pitch of garfield goes to Washington. The issue of the BHCC being responsible for anchors on aquarium needs to be addressed. I was actually at a BHCC meeting last month, the aquarium issue came up and although there was discussion I can not say with any certainty who is responsible. There are anchors out there that need replacing. This could be the common thread that serves to unify the many different climbers in this region. I personally am for replacing aged and outdated anchors in the needles. I've heard of a new orginazation founded in the hills with intentions to educate and inform interested parties, work with land managers to preserve and protect climbing for the future. Anyone with information should post on this site.
Fun climb! Would consider doing it in 3 pitches next time to get rid of the terrible rope drag after the "chimney" on the second pitch.
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Jul 8, 2007 rating: 5.3
I agree 3 pitches is way to go to avoid rope drag. Thanks a bundle to whomever put in the new anchors.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jul 9, 2008 rating: 5.5
Fantastic route. This was my one and only route in Custer State Park and would highly recommend it. My wife and I split it into 3 pitches and were up and down in less than an hour late one afternoon in mid-June.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
