Leading the first ascent of "Four Little Fishies" ...
Description
A great straighforward sport route. Follow the trail from the parking area north, it will turn uphill towards the left side of Aquarium Rock. The route starts on the left side of the gully at the base of a slab. Scramble the slab to the first clip. Fire straight up the well-worn face past five or six bolts, followed by a long runout on easy low angle terrain with one horn to sling. A one 60m rappel from the backside. A short downclimb is necessary to reach the rappel bolts.
Protection
6 draws, one long sling, a couple mid-size cams for the belay
A classic route that has good pro for the hard climbing. The big crystal that you could sling is very loose. It looks like you can place small TCUs and nuts at several spots along the runout.
The route requires four draws, unless you want to skip any of the four bolts-you probably wont. Dont fall from the top, as I recall there is no gear the last 60 feet. If you want to spend more time than is necessary to look around you may find some gear between the last bolt and the top of aquarium. If you reach the point above the last bolt where it turns to easy climbing, just hike the rest of the route. the last 60 feet is 5.2 or 5.3 old school needles grade, confirmed by the anonymous coward and the LE (local expert) For more info on this or any other route contact the Anonymous Coward or the LE. Feather Buttress anyone?
The runout is very long. I wasn't convinced the slings I looped were going to hold in a fall, but the climbing is very easy. Belay anchors are to the FAR FAR north east side of the rock (Back-right from where you climb).