Mountain Project: Climbing Custer State Park

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 9, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker
Latitude: 43.8427 Longitude: -103.5582
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Description

This area holds a high concentration of fine routes. The four main formations found here are Photographer's Peak, Aquarium Rock, Icehouse Rock, and the Great Wall. The first three are immediately next to the parking area, and the Great Wall is a short distance away.

Be ready for both bolted routes and trad routes, as there are classic lines for either liking here. Some of the best routes here are the Conn route on Aquarium (5.3), Four Little Fishies (5.9), Beyond the Door (5.10-), and Under Exposure (5.7). Each route has a fixed rappel, often requiring double ropes.

Getting There

Drive to Sylvan Lake and pay the entrance fee. These rocks are the prominent formations east of the lake and also the closest rock to the Sylvan Lake store. Drive past the main parking lot, then continue straight at the junction which drives around Sylvan Lake's east side. Park a short distance past this junction at a small pulloff on the left side of the road at the base of the rocks.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Photographers Peak:

Conn Route 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Aquarium Rock

Over Exposure 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Photographer's Peak

Four Little Fishies 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet Aquarium Rock

Featured Route For Photographers Peak

Leading the first ascent of "Four Little Fishies" in 1979

Four Little Fishies 5.9 SD : Custer State Park : ... : Aquarium Rock

A great straighforward sport route. Follow the trail from the parking area north, it will turn uphill towards the left side of Aquarium Rock. The route starts on the left side of the gully at the base of a slab. Scramble the slab to the first clip. Fire straight up the well-worn face past five or six bolts, followed by a long runout on easy low angle terrain with one horn to sling. A one 60m rappel from the backside. A short downclimb is ne...[more] Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Photographers Peak

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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 9, 2002

The Conn route on Aquariun Rock is a fun easy starter. This gives beginners a good place to start placing pro and leading an easy route. It can be done in two pitches, but three is also done just to get practice in in building anchors. Once the top is reached, enjoy the good view of Sylvan Lake, then a small 7-10 foot down climb is required to get to the rappel bolts. It is a one rope rappel off the back side of Aquarium Rock. Happy Climbing!!

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