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Far Downs
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Of Quartz It Goes 

Of Quartz It Goes 

5.7

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 125 feet
Season: Spring, Summer & Fall
Views: 68 page views

Submitted By: John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009


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Description 

Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.


Location 

As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.


Protection 

The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.



Comments on Of Quartz It Goes Add Comment
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Sep 8, 2009

CONDITION REPORT 

I think the Black Hills Climbing Coalition contacted the first ascent party and were given permission to add bolts to this route. Thinking there were 12 or 13 total now. VERY well protected!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 8, 2009

How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 9, 2009

Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment.