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DescriptionMiddle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though). Getting ThereFollow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Enting 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Quickbeam 5.5 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Riddle "Original" 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Riddle
Hrum Hroom 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fanghorn Hills
Three Rings for the Elven Kings 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Erebor
Goldberry Lane 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ered Lithui
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Sundogs 5.11d SD : Custer State Park : ... : Riddle
This route was put up on lead, in one day using hooks to place the bolts. I believe it is really well protected, and steep so injury from a fall any where in the 5.11 spot is very unlikely. A fall in the easy spot would be scary, but I doubt that injury would occur. The first five bolts are the meat and offer great movement. Some say that it is hard for the grade but I and others believe it will never be harder than 11 c/d. Have fun, give it...[more] Browse More Classics in SD |