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Middle Earth

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker
Latitude: 43.8478  Longitude: -103.5717 
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Earth as seen from top of Outer Outlet.


Description 

Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).

This area's theme is inspired by J.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings (long before the movie came out). The names come right from places and characters in these books. How appopriate too, as this area has a very magical feel to it...


Getting There 

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Enting   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Quickbeam   5.5     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Riddle "Original"   5.6     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Riddle
Hrum Hroom   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Fanghorn Hills
Three Rings for the Elven Kings   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Erebor
Goldberry Lane   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ered Lithui
Sundogs   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Riddle
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Featured Route For Middle Earth
WIENER commits to the moves

Sundogs 5.11d  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Riddle
This route was put up on lead, in one day using hooks to place the bolts. I believe it is really well protected, and steep so injury from a fall any where in the 5.11 spot is very unlikely. A fall in the easy spot would be scary, but I doubt that injury would occur. The first five bolts are the meat and offer great movement. Some say that it is hard for the grade but I and others believe it will never be harder than 11 c/d. Have fun, give it...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD