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Description Located in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a climbing area like no other, The Needles. From Sylvan Lake a road called the Needles Highway winds through spectacular and spell binding towers and spires. From this road climbers can access a playground of unparalleled face climbing on ever narrowing spires by way of quartz crystals ranging from tiny to hand sized. The area is steeped in a rich history dating back to Fitz Wiessner's accent of the Totem Pole in 1936. The area was then home to the prolific Herb and Jan Conn, two climbers way ahead of their time, who put up over 200 first ascents from their first visit in 1947 and eventual move to the area in 1949. In the 1960's climbers such as Royal Robins, John Gill, and Henry Barber put up routes that still wow climbers today with their high "pucker factor". Locals such as Paul Muehl and Bob Archbold made their contributions to the Needle's catalog of bold climbs during the 70's and into the 80's with the likes of Pete daLannoy. The Needles has long been know for its purist ethics, which has made for some wild climbs and a Needles' staple, the infamous simul-rap. As Jan Conn said,"You can climb anything in the Needles, if you have the guts." Getting ThereOnce in Custer take Hwy 89/385 east out of town and then left on to Hwy 89 north to the Sylvan Lake entrance to Custer SP. From here is where the Needles Hwy starts and heads south. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Custer State Park:
Moonlight Rib 5.3 R Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Needles Eye : The Fan
Conn Route 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Photographers Peak : Aquarium Rock
Sprire Four 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire Four
Lander Turkey Shoot 5.6 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Outlets : Inner Outlet
Evarete 5.7 Sport Outlets : Dam - Back Side
East Chimney Variation 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Cathedral Spires : Station 13
Conn Diagonal 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Outlets : Outer Outlet
Classic Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Outlets : Inner Outlet
Conn Variation 5.7+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire One
Eyetooth 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth
Needle's Eye 5.8 X Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Needles Eye : Needle's Eye
Cerberus 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
God's Own Drunk 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 320 feet Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire
Threading the Needle 5.8+ Trad Needles Eye : Needle's Eye
Four Little Fishies 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet Photographers Peak : Aquarium Rock
Hardrocker 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Outlets : Inner Outlet
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Cathedral Spires : Spire Four
Lunatic 5.10b Sport, 60 feet Moonlight Ridge : The Galaxy
Nantucket Sleighride 5.10 R Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Moby Dick
Barber Route 5.10 R Trad, 160 feet Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin
Featured Route For Custer State Park
 On the Sylvan Lake Campground boulder. From the rail that skirts the lake, you'll probably notice Central Yellow wall first. Give that problem a go..its an all time classic boulder problem. John Gill had a knack of finding such problems. If you sent that problem with ease, then take a look a few feet to the right on the rounded arete. There is a nice little problem with nice little holds. There are some wicked moves on this problem. Just Send it!...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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