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South Willow Canyon - Narrows

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South Willow Canyon - Narrows 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jun 9, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Approach is a drive up.

Description 

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.


Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Willow Canyon - Narrows:
Narrow Beginnings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Narrows - North
Rivers Edge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Narrows - South
Walk the Plank   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Narrows - South
Black Sails   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Browse More Classics in South Willow Canyon - Narrows

Featured Route For South Willow Canyon - Narrows
Follow red line to the top.

Walk the Plank 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Stansbury Mountains : ... : Narrows - South
First bolt is high but there are jugs that take you to it. You have to start by crossing the river to the rock. 1/2 way up you move right to think holds before reaching a monster right hand jug. The top has a bulge and funny holds before getting to the bolts. Fun climb but there are some loose rocks on this climb so be careful not to pull them down....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By D Argyle
From: Englewood, CO
Jan 30, 2006

Summer 2005 camping was $8 per night. Because the canyon offers good car camping close to Tooele, it is VERY popular on weekends and crazy around holidays. I would also advise that you avoid the place during during hunting seasons because it is very hard to find parking anywhere along the road. You will be continously contending with hunter traffic.

By Kurt Montgomery
Jan 5, 2008

There is free camping one canyon north in North Willow canyon or Davenport Canyon. Also there are climbs in both the lower and upper narrows. My personal faves are the bolted routes on the cliff face right of the lower narrows. The large rock west of the Boy scout campground also has an awesome 5.10 tips crack that ascends near the North east arete of a beautiful limestone tower.

By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 30, 2011

this road is still closed

By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 8, 2014

Road is open, climbing is good. This place could really use a more concise guide because there's been a bunch of development and (as far as I can see) there's no decent guide available anymore. There used to be one on pusher's site that is long since deceased.

By tenesmus
Jul 5, 2014

"Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. "

When you get to Main Street, West is going right. The street with the rec signs is actually called 'West Street'. When you come back through on your way to 15 you'll have lots of dust in your eyes and it'll be less obvious but look for Kearl Street.