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South Willow Canyon - Narrows

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South Willow Canyon - Narrows  

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Submitted By: D Argyle on Jun 9, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Approach is a drive up.


South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn right, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Willow Canyon - Narrows:
Narrow Beginnings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Narrows - North
Rivers Edge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Narrows - South
Walk the Plank   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Narrows - South
Unknown 11c-ish   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Narrows - South
Dirt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Bomb Track   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Narrows - South
Bitch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Black Sails   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
The Mountaineer Route   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Narrows - North
Texture   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Dust   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Narrows - North
Nerve Damage    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Narrows - South
TKO   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
ATV   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport   Narrows - North
Browse More Classics in South Willow Canyon - Narrows

Featured Route For South Willow Canyon - Narrows
Follow Red Line to the bolts up top.  6 clips to b...

Narrow Beginnings 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Stansbury Mountains : ... : Narrows - North
Good fun route. Easy approach just off the road, has a mini pumpy crux and a great finish after that. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By D Argyle
From: Chipita Park, CO
Jan 30, 2006
Summer 2005 camping was $8 per night. Because the canyon offers good car camping close to Tooele, it is VERY popular on weekends and crazy around holidays. I would also advise that you avoid the place during during hunting seasons because it is very hard to find parking anywhere along the road. You will be continously contending with hunter traffic.
By Kurt Montgomery
Jan 5, 2008
There is free camping one canyon north in North Willow canyon or Davenport Canyon. Also there are climbs in both the lower and upper narrows. My personal faves are the bolted routes on the cliff face right of the lower narrows. The large rock west of the Boy scout campground also has an awesome 5.10 tips crack that ascends near the North east arete of a beautiful limestone tower.
By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 30, 2011
this road is still closed
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 8, 2014
Road is open, climbing is good. This place could really use a more concise guide because there's been a bunch of development and (as far as I can see) there's no decent guide available anymore. There used to be one on pusher's site that is long since deceased.
By tenesmus
Jul 5, 2014
"Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. "

When you get to Main Street, West is going right. The street with the rec signs is actually called 'West Street'. When you come back through on your way to 15 you'll have lots of dust in your eyes and it'll be less obvious but look for Kearl Street.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 5, 2014
Turn RIGHT at main street. Please fix this. Also when you're headed into town there's a slight detour even to get to mainstream. You'll make a quick left, and a quick right at a T stop based on the instructions above.
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