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South Willow Canyon - Narrows

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South Willow Canyon - Narrows  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jun 9, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Approach is a drive up.

Description 

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',7],['5.12',6],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Willow Canyon - Narrows:
Narrow Beginnings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Narrows - North
Rivers Edge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Narrows - South
Walk the Plank   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Narrows - South
Unknown 11c-ish   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Narrows - South
Dirt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Bomb Track   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Narrows - South
Bitch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Black Sails   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Dust   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Narrows - North
TKO   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   Narrows - North
Browse More Classics in South Willow Canyon - Narrows

Featured Route For South Willow Canyon - Narrows
River's Edge climbs the arete on the west side of the wall.

Rivers Edge 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Stansbury Mountains : ... : Narrows - South
Rivers Edge is the last route on the south wall of the upper narrows. Climb past the cracks and finish on the arete to the left. P.S. Don't bail to the right....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of South Willow Canyon - Narrows Slideshow Add Photo
Just in case you were wondering.
Just in case you were wondering.

Comments on South Willow Canyon - Narrows Add Comment
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By D Argyle
From: Englewood, CO
Jan 30, 2006
Summer 2005 camping was $8 per night. Because the canyon offers good car camping close to Tooele, it is VERY popular on weekends and crazy around holidays. I would also advise that you avoid the place during during hunting seasons because it is very hard to find parking anywhere along the road. You will be continously contending with hunter traffic.
By Kurt Montgomery
Jan 5, 2008
There is free camping one canyon north in North Willow canyon or Davenport Canyon. Also there are climbs in both the lower and upper narrows. My personal faves are the bolted routes on the cliff face right of the lower narrows. The large rock west of the Boy scout campground also has an awesome 5.10 tips crack that ascends near the North east arete of a beautiful limestone tower.
By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 30, 2011
this road is still closed
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 8, 2014
Road is open, climbing is good. This place could really use a more concise guide because there's been a bunch of development and (as far as I can see) there's no decent guide available anymore. There used to be one on pusher's site that is long since deceased.
By tenesmus
Jul 5, 2014
"Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. "

When you get to Main Street, West is going right. The street with the rec signs is actually called 'West Street'. When you come back through on your way to 15 you'll have lots of dust in your eyes and it'll be less obvious but look for Kearl Street.