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South West

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Avon Gorge 
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South West  


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Location: 50.5379, -4.801 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,920
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
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Description 

The South West of England has something for ever climber.

The tip of Cornwall and the island of Lundy offer quality granite sea cliffs, an experience unrivalled elsewhere in the country. More granite, with a remarkably different composition, can be found outcropping as Tors on Dartmoor.

Much of the climbing on the North coast of Devon and Cornwall is on the Culm measures: a worryingly transient rock consisting variously of sandstone, shale, limestone, slate,.... Most of it is in varying states of falling down, but the climbing on the unique and spectacular fins at Lower Sharpnose is not to be missed.

East of Cornwall, the South coast is predominantly limestone in it's various guises. Berry Head at Torbay is home to some spectacular sea cliff adventures, as well as one of the UK's premier DWS venues. Right on the East of the area is the county of Dorset, where you can find reliable weather (well, to the extent that it exists in the UK!) and the quality sport climbing destination of Portland. The nearby area of coast near Swanage provides a more traditional ethic, and more DWS action can be had at Lulworth.

For the limestone aficionado, yet more awaits inland around Avon and Somerset. The towering walls of Cheddar gorge host some impressive multipitch sport (and trad) climbs, as well as more accessible roadside cragging. Avon gorge, in the centre of Bristol, is a major and historic urban crag, with a distinctive feel to it. Finally, across the Severn in South Wales is the tranquil area known as the Wye Valley. From the intimidating trad adventures on the GO Wall at Wintour's Leap, to the steep sport climbs at Ban-y-Gor rocks, the Wye caters for all tastes.

Getting There 

The get to this area take the M4 west of London and then head South on the M5.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.5 miles from here

106 Total Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',8],['5.8',17],['5.9',7],['5.10',32],['5.11',16],['5.12',14],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For South West
Graeme part way along the P3 traverse

Hell Gates 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Suspension Bridge Buttress
The route begins a few metres left of a prominent, left-leaning crack. Head towards an obvious cave about 65 feet up, best visible from the ground a little way back from the cliff. Pitches one and two are often run together - maybe a good idea to prevent a high-factor fall on the difficult moves out of the cave.P1: From the start, climb up the face to meet the crack, below a steeper bulge. Pull through the bulge, past a thread to gain the cave, and belay here. Remember to take a pen to sign the...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Mar 18, 2013
Maybe the description could be updated to mention the limestone sea cliffs of the Dorset and South Devon coast, culm coast of North Devon, inland granite outcrops on Dartmoor, inland limestone such as Avon and Cheddar (plus other, smaller Mendips venues)... I also think the Wye Valley should be moved into this area, rather than being on its own