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South West

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Avon Gorge 
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South West 


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Location: 50.5379, -4.801 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
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The Devils Slide, Lundy

Description 

The South West of England has something for ever climber.

The tip of Cornwall and the island of Lundy offer quality granite sea cliffs, an experience unrivalled elsewhere in the country. More granite, with a remarkably different composition, can be found outcropping as Tors on Dartmoor.

Much of the climbing on the North coast of Devon and Cornwall is on the Culm measures: a worryingly transient rock consisting variously of sandstone, shale, limestone, slate,.... Most of it is in varying states of falling down, but the climbing on the unique and spectacular fins at Lower Sharpnose is not to be missed.

East of Cornwall, the South coast is predominantly limestone in it's various guises. Berry Head at Torbay is home to some spectacular sea cliff adventures, as well as one of the UK's premier DWS venues. Right on the East of the area is the county of Dorset, where you can find reliable weather (well, to the extent that it exists in the UK!) and the quality sport climbing destination of Portland. The nearby area of coast near Swanage provides a more traditional ethic, and more DWS action can be had at Lulworth.

For the limestone aficionado, yet more awaits inland around Avon and Somerset. The towering walls of Cheddar gorge host some impressive multipitch sport (and trad) climbs, as well as more accessible roadside cragging. Avon gorge, in the centre of Bristol, is a major and historic urban crag, with a distinctive feel to it. Finally, across the Severn in South Wales is the tranquil area known as the Wye Valley. From the intimidating trad adventures on the GO Wall at Wintour's Leap, to the steep sport climbs at Ban-y-Gor rocks, the Wye caters for all tastes.


Getting There 

The get to this area take the M4 west of London and then head South on the M5.


Climbing Season


103 Total Routes


['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',8],['5.8',17],['5.9',8],['5.10',30],['5.11',15],['5.12',14],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For South West
sacrecoeur

Sacre Coeur 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Blackchurch Rock
E2 5b/c. Deservedly the classic of the area: an immaculate thin crack/slab climb up the left side of the stack.Start at the prominent crack about 5m to the right of the left arete of the slab and follow this to a wide slot just above an overlap (bold to here). Make tenuous moves left to another crack and follow this to where it fades. Now step back right into a final thin crack which leads to the top of the slab. A very sustained, but well protected pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Mar 18, 2013

Maybe the description could be updated to mention the limestone sea cliffs of the Dorset and South Devon coast, culm coast of North Devon, inland granite outcrops on Dartmoor, inland limestone such as Avon and Cheddar (plus other, smaller Mendips venues)... I also think the Wye Valley should be moved into this area, rather than being on its own