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 ADVANCED
Peak 11,300
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South West Ridge 

South West Ridge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4100', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c M4-5 [details]
FA: Niklaus Lotscher and Heinz Alleman, 1968
Season: March through May
Page Views: 3,252
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on Jul 22, 2007
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Ty Cook high on the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300...
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

This classic route deserves a spot on every aspiring alpine climbers To Do list. The ridge offers sustained moderate difficulty with over 4000 ft of vertical rise in an amazing setting. The rock quality is generally good and objective danger acceptably low.


Protection 

An alpine rock rack and pickets. A small selection of ice screws may be needed but most climbing is on snow or rock.



Photos of South West Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Taken from around the same spot as the Puryear guide cover
Taken from around the same spot as the Puryear gui...
Andy following
Andy following
The thin man squeeze
BETA PHOTO: The thin man squeeze
Chris Sheridan and Ty Cook following easier terain on the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300. Photo by Andy Grauch
Chris Sheridan and Ty Cook following easier terain...
Andy Grauch midway through the first rock band with Ty Cook simul-climbing easier terain below.
Andy Grauch midway through the first rock band wit...
Andy lovin' life
Andy lovin' life
The Southwest ridge of peak 11,300.  Photo by Andy Grauch, taken May 3rd, 2007.
The Southwest ridge of peak 11,300. Photo by Andy...
Me at the first col with Huntington in the background
Me at the first col with Huntington in the backgro...
Ty Cook leading one of the crux rock section on the Southwest ridge of Peak 11,300.
Ty Cook leading one of the crux rock section on th...
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