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Mt. Gayley
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South West Ridge (aka Yellow Brick Road) T 

South West Ridge (aka Yellow Brick Road) 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Norman Clyde - June 1927
Season: May to October
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 10, 2006

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Marc Burns crunches his way up what's usually a ro...

Description 

From Sam Mack Meadow climb the lefthand gully at the back of the meadow, bear right under the Palisade Glacier moraine, through another shallow gully just to its right (Thunderbolt Peak framed in the notch) and so gradually gain the crest of the moraine. Follow it until it peters out (wonderful views of North Pal) then work across the Glacier towards Glacier Notch - climb the Glacier Notch couloir (loose in low snow). About 1.5 hours from Sam Mack Meadow.

Hike across (north east) to the base of the South West Ridge and scramble up it via ledges to the right of the crest. Enjoy the summit view.


Location 

Retrace your steps back to camp.


Protection 

Class 3 solo. Ice-axe and crampons.



Photos of South West Ridge (aka Yellow Brick Road) Slideshow Add Photo
Route up Gayley as seen from Glacier Notch
BETA PHOTO: Route up Gayley as seen from Glacier Notch
Melody Wong with North Palisade in the background.
Melody Wong with North Palisade in the background.
Marc Burns nears the summit - Thunderbolt Peak dominates the background.
Marc Burns nears the summit - Thunderbolt Peak dom...
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