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South west face route (and alternatives)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Dabajianshan
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South face route (and alternatives) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South west face route (and alternatives) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Traditional Route (the South East Ridge) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 |
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West face route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Kewei Gao, Yeming Mei, on Oct 25, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 783 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Anmin Deng on Jan 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Limited by National Park regulations
Details
People who enter Shue-Pa (short for Snow Mtn and Mt Dabajian) National Park reservation areas need to apply for Shue-Pa National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by law. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by law. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.
Description
The first FA report other than traditional route after WWII. The FA team Kewei Gao and Yeming Mei of "Himalaya climbing club" climbed in 7 pitches. Repeated reports can be found by climbing teams of National Taiwan University (NTU) Mountaineering Club.
The FA report in Chinese (originally published in "Outdoors" magazine issue 154, in Dec 1981) can be found at
sketchtaiwan-uenxic.blogspo…
. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 4, not climbing right but climbing straight up. Squeeze the overhanging big crack on the top section. FA: Weichong Wang, Mingchong Tsao of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 24, 2003.
. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 3 (starting from the very same level of the big ledge at the top of pitch 1 of south face routes), climbing up a few meters and traverse and crawl to the right for about a dozen meters and climbing up. FA: Mingyu Lai, Guowei Ye of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 25, 2003.
. NOTE: after years of massive earth quakes and typhoons, it is now (observed in 2009) not easy any more to walk on the huge ledge at the top of pitch 2 (ie, the top of pitch 1 of south face route) from the left of south west face to the south east ridge to choose your route. Parties should choose their route on either south or south west face before starting pitch 1 now.
The FA report in Chinese (originally published in "Outdoors" magazine issue 154, in Dec 1981) can be found at
sketchtaiwan-uenxic.blogspo…
. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 4, not climbing right but climbing straight up. Squeeze the overhanging big crack on the top section. FA: Weichong Wang, Mingchong Tsao of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 24, 2003.
. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 3 (starting from the very same level of the big ledge at the top of pitch 1 of south face routes), climbing up a few meters and traverse and crawl to the right for about a dozen meters and climbing up. FA: Mingyu Lai, Guowei Ye of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 25, 2003.
. NOTE: after years of massive earth quakes and typhoons, it is now (observed in 2009) not easy any more to walk on the huge ledge at the top of pitch 2 (ie, the top of pitch 1 of south face route) from the left of south west face to the south east ridge to choose your route. Parties should choose their route on either south or south west face before starting pitch 1 now.
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