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South West Face (Harding) Route 
West Ridge, Mount Conness 

South West Face (Harding) Route 

5.10c

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
FA: Warren Harding, et al
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jun 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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The Goodrich Memorial at the base of the SW Face

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Description 

Considering the rock quality in a couple sections, a few insecure moves and the wide crack, that would be a burly solo! I can't decide what is more sick...Peter Croft's onsight solo or Walt Shipley's after doing the route roped and knowing what to expect!!

The route is exciting and physical and a must do for the High Sierra tick list.

Pitch 1: 3 options...Center option is a groove to a roof (slightly loose) (9+, 115').

Pitch 2: Easiest free version is to step down and traverse right on the lower crack approximately 20' where its possible to move back up to the upper crack at a good jug in between. Clip a pin and wiggle up to a roof. Fun finger/hand crack changes to a lieback to a sloping ledge where you can go left or right to end on the upper ledge with multiple 3rd pitch options (10, 200').

Pitch 3: If on the right side of the upper ledge...Go up a flake to a broken left facing corner and a piton belay on a ledge (8+, 120').

Pitch 4: Pick the easiest run out path to the corner chimney (which you don't really chimney, stay outside) (7+, 110').

Pitch 5: Hand and fists in the corner to a 6-7" OW/stem over a bulge passing old bolts. Continue up the 7-8" OW/Squeeze with a lonely old bolt to a a good ledge (10, 150'). #3 and #4 BigBro's may be nice.

Pitch 6: Go right on the ledge and up the obvious left facing corner with two bolts. At the second bolt make a wild traverse right to the finger cack groove with a squeeze finish to a jumbled ledge (10-, 190').

Pitch 7: Move right and up a bizarre corner system with a strenuous lieback. Follow broken rock to a sloping ledge under a flared goove (9+, 190').

Pitch 8: Up the groove and follow the natural weakness for a 190' pitch (5.5).

Pitch 9: 200+' fourth class loose grooves to the summit.


Location 

Approach from the back of Sawmill campground on a nice trail and past the Carnegie Institute. Still on a trail, trend left and up the creek drainage. Crossing talus and snow, aim for the natural rock tongue-weakness which borders the snow up to the skyline of the left edge of the east face bowl. Follow the ridgeline to the north on a worn trail all the way to the notch/view of the awesome south face of granite (stay on the trail). Drop your packs and descend the mostly solid gully. The route starts at a point left of center on the main wall. Locate the "Goodrich Memorial", a plaque bolted to the rock in a right facing corner up and right of the route's first pitch.

Descent from the summit is quick and simple thanks to cairns and built-up steps followed by a worn trail down soft dirt which leads back to the descent gully/notch and your packs.


Protection 

Nuts/hexes, 3/4" cams to 8" tubes, runners, 60M rope.



Photos of South West Face (Harding) Route Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1 is wet

Pitch 1 is wet

Dave Goldstein negotiates the first of the wide sections of pitch four -- further OW looming

Dave Goldstein negotiates the first of the wide se...

Starting the sixth pitch (P7 in Supertopo)

Starting the sixth pitch (P7 in Supertopo)

Last 5.9 section before summit gullies

Last 5.9 section before summit gullies

Luke enjoys the amazing alpine granite on one of the upper pitches of the Harding Route on Conness.

Luke enjoys the amazing alpine granite on one of t...

Looking down to the SW Face from the Conness descent

Looking down to the SW Face from the Conness desce...

The Harding Route in it's entirety. Two climbers are visible atop the first pitch, in the lower left hand corner of the photo.  July 2010

The Harding Route in it's entirety. Two climbers a...

approach from Sawmill

approach from Sawmill

approaching via the E Ridge

approaching via the E Ridge

nearing the summit plateau

nearing the summit plateau

first glimpse of the route from the top of the approach gully

first glimpse of the route from the top of the app...

looking down P1. To avoid most of the wetness I climbed an overlap to the right of the cracks then traversed back left to reach the corner. This was runout but better than wet mossy rock.

looking down P1. To avoid most of the wetness I cl...

looking toward the W Ridge

looking toward the W Ridge

Mike leading the crux pitch; sustained 10 but not grovelly

Mike leading the crux pitch; sustained 1...

P3

P3

Mike on the first of the 3 P4 offwidths

Mike on the first of the 3 P4 offwidths

looking toward Yosemite

looking toward Yosemite

more of P4

more of P4

Mike starting P5

Mike starting P5

more P5

more P5

starting the corner on P5

starting the corner on P5

looking down the last and most grovelly of the offwidth sections on P4

looking down the last and most grovelly of the off...

the 10b traverse on P5 (even spicier with wet shoes)

the 10b traverse on P5 (even spicier with wet shoe...

wet mossy bit on P5

wet mossy bit on P5

final corner on P7

final corner on P7

descent

descent


Comments on South West Face (Harding) Route Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jul 3, 2007

I thought this was a better route than Red Dihedral on The Incredible Hulk. Pitches two through seven are all quite good.

Notes:
I thought following P1, which I followed, was the crux -- wet, loose, freezing and not overly protected.

We had a 4,5 & 6 C4 Camalot. The 5 & 6 came in handy, the 4 was basically dead weight. If you're really concerned about weight, you could leave the 5 at home, but I strongly recommend having the 6 which, if you're willing to walk it along as you climb, protects most of the harder wide parts of P4; otherwise, your protection for the last 100+' of this pitch will be a few 1/4" bolts, most of which are about 50 years old.

We found the SuperTopo pitch lengths to be consistently short.

The approach from the east is easy to screw up at several points. The correct notch from which one descends from the summit plateau can be hard to identify. We incorrectly interpreted an obvious saddle about five minutes walk south from where we'd gained the plateau as the notch; while this way we went was easy, it probably added at least 20 minutes to our approach. From the base of the route we identified what was probably the correct descent: it is pretty close to the summit, one can see the entire SW Face route from it and it faces north.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 21, 2008

supertopo pitch lengths were definitely short. We took a 4 and a 6 camalot, no 5, and that worked well.

The corner to chimney after that .10b traverse pitch was a sleeper crux!

I led the first pitch in late August of a light snow year and the first pitch was a little wet but not bad, .9 felt about right and pro is decent.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 8, 2008

We carried a double rack from blue TCU-#3 camalot, and a #6 friend (the big one), which was placed twice. The four and the five camalots are unnecessary (yes, they really are, despite the offwidth). The bolts are better than one would think, possibly retros from the 70s or some other bygone era? Physical, demanding day. The first pitch, even in mid-August, was still soaking and probably the worst pitch I climbed in the High Sierra all summer. Have fun!
Wonderful route.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 21, 2009

We had a double rack from Purple TCU to #2 Camalot and then a single #3, #4 and #6. As Nick noted the #4 was not needed and we didn't miss the #5. The #6 was nice even though the 2nd part of the O/W was at least 8" and too big for a good placement.

The bolts are old Star Drives with awesome ring piton hangers... My partner clipped them but I doubt they would hold a fall and should be replaced.

Approach beta can be found here:
www.dreaminvertical.com/2009/09/mount-conness-approach-beta/

By x15x15
Sep 26, 2009

a 70 meter rope seemed to be a natural fit for this route. we used a hand drawn topo copied from the reid and falkenstein guide, and were on top in 7 pitches. 3 pitches were full 70 meters. a really, really, fun route.

By fossana
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jun 18, 2012

This was the most sustained route I've done in the Sierra, as Jon O'Brien would say, full value.

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2012

We got seriously sandbagged on the approach to this route: I think most people should expect between 4 and 6 hours carrying full gear for this route as a team of two...