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The South Wall at Big Chief contains about 15 climbs from 5.10a to hard 5.11 on vertical to overhung terrian. Climbing on the leftside of the wall contains more difficult routes that involve pulling over a roof about 15 feet up, and simpler terrian above. These routes should be stick clipped, as often the crux will be below the first bolt.
Approach time: 20 - 35 minutes.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Wall:
Festus 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Pain Killer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For South Wall
Live Wire 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : South Wall
This is the second from the right route in the distinct cave section of the South Wall, and certainly seemed like a one move wonder climb to me. Until I fell on the hard face climbing that's part of ? (.10d) next to it on the shared bolts leading to the top anchor. The middle section of this route is simple, and taking a rest is advisable.The crux of the route is undoubtedly around the first bolt, and stick clipping this bolt is a good idea. Once over the first roof, climbing is simple, until...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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