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The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
Duck a L'Orange T 
East Buttress of the South Peak T 
Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 
West Buttress of the South Peak T 
West Couloir T 
West Face of the North Peak T 

South to North Traverse 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 2500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Early 1960s
Season: late spring to fall
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Don Serl silhouetted in front of the Settler. The ...

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From Daiphy Lake, climb to col south of south peak. South ridge of south peak is climbed right of the crest and is mostly 3rd class with one 20m 4th class chimney. Descend into the south-central col and climb 2 4th-easy 5th pitches (4th class on right - up to 5.6 straight up corner from col) to the central summit with helipad. Traverse west and rappel or downclimb 15m step (stiff 4th) then traverse and downclimb or rappel another 60m to the north-central col. The north and highest summit is 3rd class scrambling from here.


Descent from the north summit may take two paths: 1) backtrack to the north-central col, then descend the sloping gravel ramp on the west face (3rd class), or 2) rappel or downclimb 60m north from north summit into gully (stiff 4th) then downclimb long gully of solid rock, 3rd-4th class, to same spot - more difficult but more solid too.


Light rack - a couple large nuts and slings will suffice.

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