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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft (758 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Early 1960s |
| Page Views: | 918 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
From Daiphy Lake, climb to col south of south peak. South ridge of south peak is climbed right of the crest and is mostly 3rd class with one 20m 4th class chimney. Descend into the south-central col and climb 2 4th-easy 5th pitches (4th class on right - up to 5.6 straight up corner from col) to the central summit with helipad. Traverse west and rappel or downclimb 15m step (stiff 4th) then traverse and downclimb or rappel another 60m to the north-central col. The north and highest summit is 3rd class scrambling from here.
Location
Descent from the north summit may take two paths: 1) backtrack to the north-central col, then descend the sloping gravel ramp on the west face (3rd class), or 2) rappel or downclimb 60m north from north summit into gully (stiff 4th) then downclimb long gully of solid rock, 3rd-4th class, to same spot - more difficult but more solid too.
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