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 ADVANCED
South Summit Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Here Now T 
Center Thumb T 
Da Black and Gold T 
Expanding Man T 
Free Mexican Air Force T 
Gold Wall T 
Great Escape, The T 
Heart of Gold T 
Inner Vision T 
Left Thumb T 
P-38 T 
Right Thumb T 
Taivallista T 

South Summit Wall  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vince Romney on May 20, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Center Thumb From Lone Peak 4-11-05

Description 

This section of the Cirque is beautifully laid out with about 20 routes ascending the many cracks and dihedrals that split this long formation until its' south end where it wraps west into Question Mark Wall. Beginning in the _V_ notch that separates the North Summit and South Summit, a wide variety of difficulty ratings and climbing techniques are available from the 5.4 _Pete's Staircase_, to the 5.10c _Roof Stopper_, as well as a few aid lines up to A2. The most prominent feature along this escarpment is Tom's Thumb, a large pinnacle jutting out from the northern section, which can be easily seen from the valley floor. The granite is good quality and placements are secure. Watch for rock fall along the lower angle routes, as the leader, or even the rope can easily dislodge material onto those below. As with the North Summit wall, hikers are also quite prevalent and I personally experienced an apple core _near miss_ which then actually touched my climbing partner as it hurtled down the face. Wear a helmet.

Getting There 

Access the South Summit wall routes directly from the meadow via the talus field.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Summit Wall:
Expanding Man   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Gold Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Center Thumb   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
The Great Escape   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
P-38   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Da Black and Gold   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Free Mexican Air Force   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Taivallista   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in South Summit Wall

Featured Route For South Summit Wall
The blue line is Taivallista.

Taivallista 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : South Summit Wall
This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
BETA PHOTO: General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
South Summit Wall
BETA PHOTO: South Summit Wall

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