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This climb is the leftmost climb, which is accessed from the upper approach ledge. Start in a short finger crack (crux?) and follow gear placements in horitzonals to two bolts. The climbing near the bolts is only around 5.8, unless you avoid the big holds to the left.
Descend from chains on a 2-bolt anchor....
Follow the 4th class approach to the upper ledge system. Head left on 4th class ledges to the base of the climb.
Light rack to #2 Camalot....
As might be guessed from this photo, this climb is...
|By Ben Burnett|
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Gear is better than it looks from below.