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South Side

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South Side  


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 21, 2010
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Sunset over the south walls...

Description 

The South Side of Volunteer Canyon is a stunning array of haphazardly balanced columns. While most of it is losing the battle against erosion and gravity, there are pockets of the cliff that are unbelievably solid and offer up some timeless routes.

These routes require rapping to specific belays, and climbing out, which may make them a bit tricky to find your first time out. For now, all I can say is that it is best to locate the routes from the North Side of the canyon, and eye the topouts well. There are faint trails, and to the discerning eye the topouts should be recognizable.

The East End Wall and The Pillar Wall both face North, and in the dead of summer hold fast to their shade. The Canary Area, the Iron Wall, and the West End Wall face Northwest, and stay in the shade until early afternoon. More shade in the fall.

The most accessible and enjoyable camping is also found on the rim of the South Side.

We have encountered Black Tail Rattlesnakes when the ambient temperatures were in the high 80s or low 90s. Two of them decided our climbing packs offered up the best shade around. Watch your step, and watch out for your dogs....

Getting There 

You can almost drive to the rim! Find the point, and start poking around.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.7 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Canary Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Canary Area
Rapture   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   East End Wall
Pig Iron   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Iron Wall
Experimental Forrest   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 80'   East End Wall
Detritus Spite-Us   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Iron Wall
Cash, Grass, or Ass   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   West End Wall
Phantasm   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   West End Wall
Nyctophiliac    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   West End Wall
Iron Potato   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Iron Wall
Ultraviolet Ammunition   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 105'   East End Wall
Browse More Classics in South Side

Featured Route For South Side
Joel & Carrie

Pig Iron 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Iron Wall
Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon... However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both bouldery, and down home thin hands jamming. Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one piece fixed belay- bring medium wires to supplement.From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this som...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for South Side
Photos of South Side Slideshow Add Photo
A look at the walls of the South Side of Volunteer...
A look at the walls of the South Side of Volunteer...
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South Walls topo
BETA PHOTO: South Walls topo

Comments on South Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Davidson
Jun 26, 2013
You guys should try hard to drag Baxter out there and get him to document the stuff he did out there. Seemed like the few times I went out there with him he kept pointing out other stuff he'd done.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 26, 2013
It does bum me out that the history here wasn't as well documented as other older crags like the Forks and the Overlook. There are some damn hard lines to do, and it won't surprise me if this place churns out a few test pieces for this generation to chew on...
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 29, 2013
Joel has definitely volunteered a glimpse into the future..
By john crawley
From: flagstaff, az
Jun 29, 2013
And the drums go ba da ch! For Darren.
By Paul Davidson
Jul 1, 2013
A lot of the history wasn't recorded for a few reasons.
There was never a ton of activity for one. The area has a certain feel and look to it. Some of the walls look like they might decide to pay homage to gravity any day now. Most stuff was just word of mouth, way back when. There were a number of test pieces for the time that were scattered out there, most of the hard stuff was on the south side. And originally, it was out there all by itself. Once the Forks was found, well... There was enough to do there to stay pretty occupied.

Those new routes look really cool.