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Brinton's Buttress
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South Side 
Stool Pigeon 

South Side 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Mr. Mix on Mar 22, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Southside climbs the face between Berkeley and Chicago. A bit of a squeeze job, but an enjoyable climb none the less. The crux begins at a small overhang 5 feet right of the niche in Chicago. The line runs pretty much strait up and down from this spot. There is sufficient rest after the crux, but another tricky spot near the top.


Protection 

Pro could be placed in adjacent cracks of Berkeley or Chicago. Limited protection on face.



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By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Mar 22, 2010

I would appreciate if someone could share who did the first ascent. Has this route been led?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Mar 23, 2010

Being one that searches MP for classic climbs....can this squeeze job really be 3 stars Mike? Saying that it is close to classic? Or is it more of a fun route that you wouldnt spend the day searching for? To me it sounds like the latter.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Mar 23, 2010

thanks for adding this, I wondered what you guys were working so hard on last Sunday. I especially like the sit-down rest you seem to have found!

By Alex A
Jul 9, 2010

I think this a Ralph Schmitt route, to my knowledge is has not been lead, would agree about 3 star NOT, its got some hard moves pulling over the overhang, another squeeze in route,

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

A bit contrived, but worth doing if you have the time.

By Erol Altay
Oct 3, 2012

This route is 3 stars. It follows the direct line in the middle of the wall to the summit. Great by definition. Just requires some focus, discipline, and narrow mindedness.