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 ADVANCED
South Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-52 T 
Bat's Ass T 
Bloody Crack T 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
Chaos Out of Control T 
Dinkus Dog T 
Fat Dog T 
First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T,S 
name unknown (Bamboozled) T 
Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
Second Coming T 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
Slug, The T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
Windwalker T 
Zodiac T 
Unsorted Routes:

South Side  


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Page Views: 51,999
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Jeep Gaskin working on Danger Dog 4-88.This was po...

Description 

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Fat Dog   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 325'   
Second Coming   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Bloody Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
First Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Rat's Ass   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Zodiac   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Gemini Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Unfinished Concerto   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Windwalker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
B-52   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Dinkus Dog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Chaos Out of Control   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Bat's Ass   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in South Side

Featured Route For South Side
Mary getting into the fun water groove above the crux on P2.

Chaos Out of Control 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side
I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying. The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long af...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of South Side Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the South Face Nice Fall Colors.
Approaching the South Face Nice Fall Colors.
Eddie Begoon on FA. of Beethovan's 5th 1988.
Eddie Begoon on FA. of Beethovan's 5th 1988.
Looking across the South Side. Photo taken from 1st pitch belay on Dinkus Dog.
Looking across the South Side. Photo taken from 1s...
Jeep on Danger Dog with Monty looking on during FA.1988
Jeep on Danger Dog with Monty looking on during FA...
Eddie on FA of Beethovan's 5th.5.11 just right of Unfinished Concerto.
Eddie on FA of Beethovan's 5th.5.11 just right of ...
Jeep High on Danger Dog during FA. with Monty Reagan.
Jeep High on Danger Dog during FA. with Monty Reag...

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