In 2001, this route (and the entire Mallory Cave Area) was closed April 1 to Oct 1.
This route ascends a knobby chimney just south of the entrance to Mallory Cave. Grab a chockstone to enter the chimney (crux), then squeeze up and then out of the chimney (lots of face holds). Continue up to the notch between the Hand and Sharks Fin. This can be made harder by moving right onto the east face of the Sharks Fin (recommended), rather than climbing the gully itself. At the notch, scramble north and join the top of the North Side route to reach the summit (4th class).
Standard Flatiron rack