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 ADVANCED
Elephant Rock
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South Side Classic 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: old dudes
Page Views: 1,797
Submitted By: Casey Bernal on Jan 1, 2005

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Route

Description 

This is a very nice wandering line up the South side. The first pin and crack is about 18' up, so a spotter is advised. Traverse right on the ledge then straight up to the anchors. The protection on the route is fairly spaced out, but it is certaily adequate if you place good pro. This is the easiest route to the top, and could be used to place topropes on the other lines.

Again, there may be new bolts that replaced the old fixed gear, but if not be sure to back up the old pins with good gear. Hopefully they also replaced the old anchor at the top.

Overall a fun short line. Several nice face climbing cruxes with rests. Feels longer and more exposed than it looks from the ground.

Protection 

A set of nuts and small cams. Hybrid aliens are also useful in the pin scars. There is a rumor that some new bolts were put in in place of the old fixed gear.


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By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 5, 2005

There are now two new ASCA bolts to add to the three fixed pins. The route could now be considered well protected. You will still want to bring a few small cams and a couple nuts. There are also a fresh pair of anchor bolts, too.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is a mixture of about 4 bolts/pitons on the route. I didn't see any great locations to back up some of the older pitons on the route except for the first small crack visible from the ground.
By Sunny Yum
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think this route used to be much better years ago, but as it stands today, this route is pretty bad and is probably harder than its original 5.7+ rating. It looks to me like there used to be a series of flakes that have long since broken off, and have made the climb much more difficult. At the bottom, the only route up to the ledge is on the left/middle side of the face -- the right side of the face is no longer viable and a bolt that was placed on the right side of the face has been chopped to reflect that. The middle 3-bolt line (just to the left of the piton on the far right) from the ledge is easily 5.12+. The right-most line from the ledge is probably 5.9+.
By Bob Dobalina
Sep 15, 2011

Pretty techy for a 5.7. No natural gear needed at all. It's bolted.
By nate post
Apr 26, 2012

I took off on this thinking 5.8+. I explored the entire south face before finding the anchors. I think I climbed every grade from 5.7 to 5.12. It must have looked like a comedy show. I was only trying to set up a top rope for my wife, but by the time I got back to the ground, she had no interest in climbing it. The good news is I think I have it figured out.
By Kris Holub
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is no way this is 5.7+, more like 5.9 or 5.9+. For what it's worth, I thought it was harder than anything on the Yellow Spur in Eldo except maybe the bolt ladder finish variation. There are some very thin/reachy sections and the holds are not obvious.

The only spot for pro is a small nut/cam right above the first piton, and the rest is a face climb. If you plan to top rope this you will need 1 or 2 directional pieces (1 draw for a bolt up high and the nut/cam by the piton). The climbing is OK on good rock but the massive ledge really breaks the climb up. The fact that you can belay from your car does redeem the route a bit though.