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Saint Vrain Peak - Middle St. Vrain

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Saint Vrain Peak - Middle St. Vrain  

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Elevation: 11,000'
Page Views: 2,795
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on Mar 26, 2006
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The south side of Saint Vrain Peak, hosting severa...


South Saint Vrain Peak hosts three ice and mixed routes mentioned in Jack Roberts "Colorado Ice" and several more routes. The climbs can be found at the end of a 6-7 mile approach lending to a nice wilderness atmosphere and few if any other parties. The routes lie on the South side of South Saint Vrain Peak at around 11,000 feet and are likely in best shape around February. Routes are known as "A Dog Day Afternoon", "Every Dog Has Its Day", and "Too Much Dawg Gawn Trouble"; however, I don't know which is which, so I'll assign numbers for now. Anyone with more information about these routes should feel free to contact me or add to this information.

Getting There 

Park at the Peaceful Valley winter trailhead and travel west toward the Saint Vrain Glaciers. The routes can be seen on the right after about six to seven miles. The trail is mostly flat and skis are useful.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Photos of Saint Vrain Peak - Middle St. Vrain Slideshow Add Photo
Ice climbs on the south side of St. Vrain Peak.
Ice climbs on the south side of St. Vrain Peak.
The second from furthest right climb (45m, WI4/5)....
The second from furthest right climb (45m, WI4/5)....

Comments on Saint Vrain Peak - Middle St. Vrain Add Comment
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By clint dillard
From: Louisville, Co
Feb 12, 2007
Skied out and climb the far left climb yesterday 2/11/07. 1 pitch of ice and 2 of snow. There is more ice higher on the route, but it is very thin with possible avalanche danger getting up to it. The route to the far right was very rotten looking. Conditions now are not worth the ski out unless your looking for a good adventure.
By erik rieger
From: Nederland, CO
Mar 7, 2015
If you're looking for a leg day plus some good climbing, this is a good spot to go. It's 7-8 miles to St. Vrain Peak from the closed gate.

Between the campground and the "Dog Day" routes shown here, there are up to 15 total ice/mixed climbs on various walls from moderate to hard (over 6 miles...), all on the south side of this long valley. The routes are similar to south-facing routes you might find in Hyalite Canyon and are very condition dependent. In general, you should expect steep, sun-baked ice with 25-45m pitches. Bring rock and ice gear and two ropes. There's some avalanche hazard on the Dog routes.

Also, this area should be re-categorized into the Indian Peaks section.
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