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South Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange 
Airy Scary 
Alias The Martian 
Eagle's Nest 
Eagle's Nest (original) 
Rainy Daze  
Surface Tension 
Unknown (South Face Left) 
Unknown (South Face Middle) 
Unknown (South Face Right) 
Yikes Dikes 
Zig Zag Man 

South Rock 

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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007
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The south face of South Rock.
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Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.

Getting There 

South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.


You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Rock:
Yikes Dikes   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Zig Zag Man   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   
Unknown (South Face Middle)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Unknown (South Face Right)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Alias The Martian   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unknown (South Face Left)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Surface Tension   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Browse More Classics in South Rock

Featured Route For South Rock
Mike Stewart low on the route c. 2000

Airy Scary 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13  NM : Taos Area : ... : South Rock
The name says it all. (Although it originally had no name.)Start below a small triangular roof, pull up to a solid-looking 1/4" bolt. Face climb up to a roof (pro in crack) and traverse right on solid flakes, or take a more direct line with scarcer pro, to a roof below a piton. Turn the roof which is surprisingly easy and protects well with a nut. From the piton to the next bolt up and right is the technical but well-protected crux with off-balance moves (AIRY!). Up from here past a 2nd pit...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 15, 2011

Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading.