Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Rim Routes

Select Route:
Alimony T 
Astro Dog T 
Black In Action T 
Black Shadow Arete T 
Black Snake T 
Blackjack T 
Crystal Vision T 
Dark Star T 
Dragon Rider T 
El Padre T 
Falcon Wall T 
Flakes, The T 
Flapjack T 
Ground Control to Major Tom T 
Last Payment T 
North Shore T 
Pent Up T 
Quota, The T 
Tague Yer Time T 

South Rim Routes  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.5811, -107.7154 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 109,647
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Clear
72° | 50°
Clear
76° | 49°
Clear
80° | 52°
Clear
81° | 52°
Clear
80° | 51°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Early morning light on the Wall of Broken Dreams.

2014 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Coming soon...

[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its foreboding, long routes with chillier temperatures. Since the canyon is quite steep and quite narrow, these routes have a much darker ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. In fact, these factors may have slowed the exploration of these walls during the early years of climbing here. The one advantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat easier.

All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.

As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.

Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]

Getting There 

Coming soon...

The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.

South Rim: 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347

[From Steve Levin: For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.]

[From Charles Vernon: The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).]
[Eds. If anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it here, change the name of the submitter]

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Rim Routes:
Flakes, The   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X     Trad, 14 pitches, 2000'   
Black Shadow Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Last Payment   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Black Snake   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 600'   
Crystal Vision   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 12 pitches, 1800'   
El Padre   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1800'   
Astro Dog   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 14 pitches, 2000'   
Flapjack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   
Tague Yer Time   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 15 pitches, 1500'   
Pent Up   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Classics in South Rim Routes

Featured Route For South Rim Routes
The route climbs the right side of the roof.

The Quota 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Gunnison : ... : South Rim Routes
The Quota is a shorter route on the south rim with an ultra stellar crux. The sun hits around noon, so it's best to get an early start so as to not bake through the hard pitches or the first two hanging belays (summer beta). If you like the idea of pulling a perfect, huge roof 200 feet off the deck, you should do this route.P1: go up crack below the roof, come up under the bolt, clip and go left and up to the belay. 5.11-, 115 feet.P2: Sick. Climb up past two bolts and re-enter the main cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of South Rim Routes Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Marmot Rocks bouldering area on the South Rim.
Marmot Rocks bouldering area on the South Rim.

Comments on South Rim Routes Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2013
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2002
[Eds. this comment has been edited at the request of the commenter] For routes on the main SCVW a viable access is via the "Astro Slog" raps (see the topo under the Astro Dog route description). The start is upriver a few feet from the overlook, at a boulder. Two ropes are required. This has cleaned up a bit, the anchors are good, and most are easy to locate. Try to trend more climbers-right at the bottom, lest you stray into the super-munge to the left. Plan on 2-3 hours. A second option is to descend the Cruise Gully and cross the river via the tyrolean located below NCVW, then have someone meet you on the South Rim with a car. This strategy works best if you arrange for attractive members of the opposite sex to pick you up, and if they have a picnic lunch and a nice, chilled white wine. Other options exist.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 9, 2002
This is a quote from Rock Climbing Colorado, on how to approach the SCV Wall: "...drop down the first gully past the Painted Wall Overlook. About 200' of 3rd class rock are near the gully's bottom. Below this rock work up and right to a saddle behind a large pinnacle. Drop down a gully from the saddle to the river and the wall base."

The latter part of this descent, from the saddle behind the pinnacle, is obvious and looks reasonable (except perhaps for the 5.7 slabs above the river) from the North Rim. However, I'm inclined to assume that the upper gully does not exist as described (I've seen it from the South side, and been down the gully just west to the Alimony Wall, but it is hard to tell how far the first gully goes before cliffing out), since I've never heard of it anywhere else and it sounds too good to be true! Oddly, the only other method for reaching SCVW mentioned in Rock Climbing Colorado is via the Chillumstone Gully, which would require river crossings. In the new guidebook, neither of these methods are mentioned, while three others are described(rappelling, tyrolean, and SOFB raps).
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2002
Nice that published guides have not eliminated adventure in the Black.

It would probably be wise to take anything ever written about the Black- whether in a guidebook, magazine article, or on this website- with a big grain of salt.

This applies in particular to anything I have written.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 10, 2002
I agree...I was actually kind of sad when the guidebook came out (although I coulnd't help myself and went ahead and memorized the whole thing anyway), even though I first climbed in the canyon little more than a year ago. But when I finally do get around to climbing SCV Wall, the approach is part of the adventure I'm looking foward to (might have to check out this mysterious gully...)!
By Kishen Mangat
May 28, 2003
What is the Poison Ivy beta on the south rim climbs? I've heard it's not as bad as the north rim, but I find it hard to believe.
By aaron voreis
Aug 20, 2005
the poison ivy on the south rim is minimal and easy to avoid. the pricker bushes however, are much more prickly than the ones on the north rim.
By Max Kendall
From: Ouray, CO
Jun 5, 2008
I have been down the SOFB raps many times without incident to climb routes as far south as Astro Dog. I used this descent when I climbed Astro dog in a day and later Falcon wall in a day; they are fairly easy four or five raps. The first rap was removed by someone, but the rest are there and have been updated since they were established in the early '90s. To find them, you walk out the trail to Painted Wall overlook and trend right and down some ramps and a gully till you see the large summit of a fin-like spire that separates the SOFB from the main canyon to the North.
By C. Trimble
Jun 26, 2009
Does anyone know if there is still a fixed line in the Chillumstone gully?

thx much
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jul 15, 2009
As of 11 Jul 2009, the mentioned fixed rap line for the 150' Chillumstone rappel put there by NPS is no longer there, removed by a climbing ranger, according to the ranger we spoke to at the Visitor's Center. The rap sling and rings are still there for use. We just used own 70 m rope.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Oct 12, 2009
FWIW, the fixed rope will only get you halfway down the Chillumstone rap (it got chopped by a rock), but a single 70m rope is perfect. I talked to the ranger after our climb and he questioned us about the fixed line and wondered what we thought of a NPS fixed static line on that rap. My partner and I both said it would be a bad idea and he mentioned that Brent from the N. Rim also suggested against it. So, plan on using your own rope on the descent.
By Papa Sims
Jul 4, 2010
Does anyone have any beta on Black Hole? Good rock, worth doing? Wondering what big gear to bring(is extra wide gear needed for belays, etc.). Also wanted to know if the first pitch is always wet?
By Andy Donson
Jul 8, 2010
RE The Black Hole
Dont remember any specific wide belay sizes apart from the first belay. Theres an ancient fixed hex, which we backed up with the smallest Bigbro. After that I think we had a doubles from Camalot #5 down for the rest of the OW. The crux roof is #3 and #4 Camalot size I think. After that, it's back to standard rack. The first pitch was wet in may, but maybe would be dry late summer or fall.
I would totally recommend this route - its a pretty monumental feature. The OW stuff at the beginning is a bit scaly, but in places and after that the rock is bomber. Ask Pennings or Wharton for an unbiased quality rating.
By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Oct 13, 2013
Is the Tyrolean up now (fall 2013), and does anyone have a good description of how to reach it from the Cruise Gully descent? We will be reaching it in the dark.