Start like the name implies in a fun hand craft in a dihedral at the base of the South ridge. Jam up the corner until you can reach the large horn and pull onto the slab of the ridge line. A bit run out on the ridge but a bolt can be clipped about mid-way. Cruise up the ridge line to the top and use anchors for "Mole' Plablano" on the West Side.
South Ridge, Rap from anchors on the west side.
Selection of cams from .5 to 3in. 1 draw for the bolt.
Fun position on the ridge.
Garret climbing the opening dihedral/hand crack
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Don't let the rating scare you away. The runout sections are 5.6 moves or easier. Bring a orange metolius and a yellow metolius for horizontals on the upper ridge. Bottom crack protects with standard hand size pieces. Slightly strenuous for 5.8 but fantastic climbing and position. Hit Mole Poblano on your way down.
May 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double #2 and #1 were very nice for lower section. Agreed the upper portion is super easy, dont sweat the fact its runout. The lower section is very strenuous if you're lacking crack technique, though a great way to learn on the go.