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Montezuma Tower
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North Ridge 
South Ridge 
West Face Direct 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Auld
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Nelson on May 2, 2007
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This thing was pretty bad. Myself and two friends wanted to get on the North Ridge, but it was packed, so we jumped on this pile. I remember the rock felt like climbing out of a sandbox. All pro was pretty shotty I used two medium cams, and I remember clipping a screamer to a nail (normally a nail would be slang for pin or piton, but no, by nail I mean a small rusty nail hammered in the rock). When I look back, it was a great adventure but one I would not recommend to most unless you like to scrub you drawers after a climb. Later that year we went on to the Warren Johnson route and I thought the rock was more solid for a comparison.


Gear, pin, nail.

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By Keith B. Ives
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c X


Completely agree with the description; wish I had seen this before this afternoon. Went to climb the N. Ridge & was beat to it. Jumped on the south ridge instead. One of the headier lead I've done. Ended with me losing a nut & my tow rope to the climb (6/10). Was getting dark & I did not want to climb it again. Drop me a note if you grab the rope & want some beer....

By Umph!
May 4, 2007

Enigma description.