BETA PHOTO: Start of route. This shows what we did with a 30M...
This "F3" route is one of Roach's Flatiron classics. It probably made the list due to the length of the climb, position in the canyon, and the easy climbing. I personally did not find this climb to be that enjoyable. There is some good climbing on the route, but there is a lot of bad rock and lichen. We had planned to simul-climb this route, but the up and down steps on the ridge creates a lot of rope drag. Roach says this climb is about 600ft long, but it is probably closer to 750ft.
Approach this climb by hiking between the Overture and Dinosaur Rock. Head down the gully to the south, passing the southern ridge on the Overture. The south ridge route will have a 20 foot arch on the ridge line at 120 ft. Pretty much follow the ridge line for 750ft. When you run into headwalls head left. At a group of trees at the 500ft level, you will join the Free Shot route.
Descent: A one rope rap off a horn to the north will put you on the ground. Find a hole to squeeze through to get to hiking territory.
Light rack to 2".
|By Warren Teissier|
Dec 9, 2002
Guy, I did this route today and really enjoyed it...
I was soloing so I did not have the hassle of the ropedrag. I did not find the rock to be too bad. I passed both headwalls on the right (seemed easier although Roach claims left is easier). All in all I though it was a fun scramble although not stellar.
Also I downclimbed the gully between the Oveture and Freishutz to reach the base. This was a bad choice, I think your approach description is a better choice.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 10, 2002
This route was probably not a good choice to simul-climb. My enjoyment of the route was probably effected by me climbing with one hand on the rock and the other pulling on the rope behind me. The enjoyment factor would probably be higher ropeless.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007
A great scramble (solo) but only an average route.
|By Rick Blair|
Jul 13, 2012
Gerry Roach has this as F3 and Haas has it as 4th. I strongly disagree. I was intending a free solo but caught it after a rain so had to rope up the first half. I was also in approach shoes. Even accounting for those 2 things I think this requires much more thoughtful moves than Front Porch, Lost Porch, Freeway or S Ridge 1st Flatironette. On those you can grab and go, not so much on certain sections of this. I would say 5.2 but would have to come back with climbing shoes when its dry to verify. For sure the bottom is not 4th/F3.