Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Der Freischutz
Select Route:
Bidoigt 
Drugs 
Dwarves Are People Too 
East Face / Der Freischutz 
Free Shot 
Horn, The 
HuGGz 
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing 
North East Gully 
Reality 
Rock and Roll 
Sidewalk Stroll 
South Ridge 
Street Hassle 

South Ridge 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I British: MM 1c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I British: MM 1c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Start of route. This shows what we did with a 30M...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This "F3" route is one of Roach's Flatiron classics. It probably made the list due to the length of the climb, position in the canyon, and the easy climbing. I personally did not find this climb to be that enjoyable. There is some good climbing on the route, but there is a lot of bad rock and lichen. We had planned to simul-climb this route, but the up and down steps on the ridge creates a lot of rope drag. Roach says this climb is about 600ft long, but it is probably closer to 750ft.

Approach this climb by hiking between the Overture and Dinosaur Rock. Head down the gully to the south, passing the southern ridge on the Overture. The south ridge route will have a 20 foot arch on the ridge line at 120 ft. Pretty much follow the ridge line for 750ft. When you run into headwalls head left. At a group of trees at the 500ft level, you will join the Free Shot route.

Descent: A one rope rap off a horn to the north will put you on the ground. Find a hole to squeeze through to get to hiking territory.


Protection 

Light rack to 2".



Comments on South Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Warren Teissier
Dec 9, 2002

Guy, I did this route today and really enjoyed it...

I was soloing so I did not have the hassle of the ropedrag. I did not find the rock to be too bad. I passed both headwalls on the right (seemed easier although Roach claims left is easier). All in all I though it was a fun scramble although not stellar.

Also I downclimbed the gully between the Oveture and Freishutz to reach the base. This was a bad choice, I think your approach description is a better choice.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 10, 2002

Warren,

This route was probably not a good choice to simul-climb. My enjoyment of the route was probably effected by me climbing with one hand on the rock and the other pulling on the rope behind me. The enjoyment factor would probably be higher ropeless.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007

A great scramble (solo) but only an average route.

By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Jul 13, 2012

Gerry Roach has this as F3 and Haas has it as 4th. I strongly disagree. I was intending a free solo but caught it after a rain so had to rope up the first half. I was also in approach shoes. Even accounting for those 2 things I think this requires much more thoughtful moves than Front Porch, Lost Porch, Freeway or S Ridge 1st Flatironette. On those you can grab and go, not so much on certain sections of this. I would say 5.2 but would have to come back with climbing shoes when its dry to verify. For sure the bottom is not 4th/F3.