Roach lists this climb as a "F5" flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be down climbed.
From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.
P1: Start 10ft up hill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch. (5.3, ~180ft)
P2: Crux pitch. Down climb the notch and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to down climb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete. (exciting F5, ~100ft)
P3: Down climb into a notch and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag. (~100ft)
P4: Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180ft)
P5: Tag the summit... (~50ft)
Descent: Downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron. (F3)
Rack to a #3 camolat, small TCU's helpful
You run and you run to catch up with the sun, but ...
We didn't find the Hole, but stepped across from t...
|Comments on South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun]
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 12, 2004
In soloing this, I was stopped for awhile at a place not recognizable in the Roach description. The description above should work better. I passed the crux by passing right on the corner and delicately climbing up to the horn at 5.5 to reach the basin.
|By Mike McMahon|
From: Vernal, Utah
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I also soloed this one. Taking Roach's suggestion, I did this one around sunset, and caught the sun by the summit... The key was the 'hole' off the side of the 'basin' on the 'second pitch.' Great views of the First!