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 ADVANCED
Delta Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of the Dead S 
Crystal Meth S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
East Crack T 
Fin -- S. Face S 
Fin Arete S 
Hobo Sapien S 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Original East Face S 
Over Under Sideways Down S 
Petty Tyrant S 
South Rib T 
Summit access T 
West Face Direct S 

South Rib 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Probably Tony Lusk circa 2000
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: jbak on Apr 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Apparently the bolts end at the gear-protectable (?) rib high up. I wanted to get the route on here so I could give a heads-up about that detail.

I've talked to 2 parties who have done the route on separate occasions, and they both said the bolts ended and there was no anchor. I'll check it out as soon as I can.

Quality and diff ratings are hearsay and guessing. I haven't done the route.

Location 

Just left (west) of the lowest part of the toe of the dome.

Protection 

Bolts down low, gear up high.


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By JoeS
Apr 22, 2014

Joe Kreidel and I did this route and as John mentioned couldn't find anchors. It felt harder than 11 to me. It had a hard, short, and crimpy start. The climbing above was interesting, but more like 12a in my opinion. Would be a pretty good route with anchors. Are they there and we couldn't find them?
By jbak
Aug 16, 2014

It looks to me like the highest bolt location should be the anchor too. It just needs a second bolt and some Mussys. I was going to drill a 2nd bolt yesterday but got driven off by lightning.

It is possible that Tony never completed the route.
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 16, 2014

Above the last bolt, the climbing seemed to stay in a water groove trending left. If you anchored above the water groove at the ledge, I think there would be a lot of friction on the rope when lowering. So the last bolt is probably a good spot to end the climb.

The crux is right off the ledge about 25 feet up, watch those ankles.