|The Fist or Hippo Head
This route is at the Eastern-most ramp on the South face. Coming from the East face, it'll be immediately after turning onto the South face. It is easily identifiable due to a unique 6 inch water groove that may or may not be wet.
The route goes up this ramp / water groove all the way to the ledge below the summit block.
The first 30 feet of the first pitch provide the crux. The rock is VERY polished, and there is no protection to be had. Continue up the ramp until you reach a large ledge/meadow where you can belay.
The second pitch moves left onto the ridge of the ramp and continues up as you move under a huge chockstone. After this you can set up the belay in another meadow.
The third pitch continues up the ramp and tackles a smooth unprotected section of friction climbing (second crux). From there, 200 feet up the ramp will get you to the ledge below the summit block. Avoid the temptation to go right at the large dihedral after the second crux.
To escape the summit, rappel 50 feet to the North from the ledge below the summit block. It is recommended to bring some 10 feet of webbing in case you have to set up the rappel around the huge rock horn.
Standard Flatiron rack. Long slings for trees.
BETA PHOTO: Taken from the top of Angel's Way. The righthand ...
Scott leading the second pitch.
Warren following the second pitch, with Dinosaur M...
George Bell on the summit of the Fist. Visible be...