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South Peak - West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Buttress Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
NOVA T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

South Peak - West Face  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.8342, -79.3667 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 252,323
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Sep 19, 2006
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69-84°F
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61-81°F
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63-80°F
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BETA PHOTO: (Not my image) Selected routes on the South Peak -...

Description 

The west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5).

To descend the west face there are two major rappel stations. The first is from the tree at the top of Conn's West/West Pole. 1. Rappel from the tree to a set of rap hangers near a tree on Conn's West. (50ft) 2. From there you can rappel to a large ledge with a tree to the north. (65ft) 3. Behind this tree are rap anchors to the base of Old Man's Route. (70ft)

The second rappel is from the Traffic Jam notch. Anchors are located around the corner to the south from the notch. 1. Rappel from these anchors to the top of Neck Press (45ft). 2. Rappel from Neck Press to another set of anchors. (65ft) 3. Rappel the remaining length to the ground. (70ft)

Getting There 

Park near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S).

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',46],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',27],['5.7',12],['5.8',11],['5.9',13],['5.10',14],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gunsight to South Peak   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Ecstasy Junior   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Le Gourmet   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 285'   
Gunsight to South Peak Direct   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Conn's West   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Critter Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Green Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pleasant Overhangs   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Traffic Jam   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
West Pole   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Prune   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Burn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Triple S   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
Marshall's Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 165'   
Back to the Front   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Bring on the Nubiles   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Cottonmouth - Venom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Sidewinder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Browse More Classics in South Peak - West Face

Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Photo from the internet

The Gendarme 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
The Gendarme was a 25 foot pinnacle that rose from the center of Gunsight Notch (hence the name Gunsight Notch - it looked like the sights of a rifle). It fell/slid down the mountain on October 22, 1987.Climb the east face of the Gendarme. Start on the northeast corner and move diagonally up to a ledge on the south east corner. Climb to the summit. The route is not considered completed until the climber stands un-aided on the summit. It can be a real trip on windy days. It was a highly recommen...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of South Peak - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the view from the top!
Enjoying the view from the top!
Routes on the West face of the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the West face of the South Peak
More Routes on the west face of the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: More Routes on the west face of the South Peak
Enjoying the summit register
Enjoying the summit register
Crowded day on top of the South Peak.  (Looking so...
Crowded day on top of the South Peak. (Looking so...
Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...
Some of the Seneca Sevens (left to right): Green W...
Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
BETA PHOTO: Selected routes (different view) on the South Peak
Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...
Maggie on her first summit
Maggie on her first summit
Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Face of a Thousand Pitons, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Snake face
BETA PHOTO: Snake face
Mike on top of the South Peak.
Mike on top of the South Peak.

Comments on South Peak - West Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development.
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