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South Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blame Canada S 
Conjoined Twin Myslexia S 
Kick in the Nuts S 
Kick the Baby S 
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo, Direct Start S 
Screw You Guys, I'm Going Home S 
Scuzzlebutt S 
Simultaneous Lovin' S 
Sit Down and Shut Up S 
Southpark S 
Strike & Slip S 
They Killed Kenny S 
Unknown (Left Of Kick The Baby) S 
You Bastards S 
You Will Respect My Authoriti S 

South Park  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 32.4514, -110.7914 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,976
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: WSnyder on Jul 1, 2007
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Morning to midday sun and afternoon shade. Remote and secluded.

Getting There 

Follow the topo's I have posted. Do not try to contour around on the old trail below the rim anymore as it is far too overgrown post fire and runs through a couple of patches of Gooding's Onions. Having been there many times pre-fire I was able to follow about 80-90% of the original trail and it took me approximately 1 1/4 hours from car to crag contouring through the nettles, brush and fallen trees. Definitely "Sucked Ass!!!". Follow the ridges shown on the posted maps. Walking distance is just under a mile. It took less than 30 minutes to walk out following the ridges. Park in the Reef pullout (1 on map) or the ski lift junkyard pullout (2 on map). There may be closer parking higher up that I did not check out so you may want to drive up the road and look. Head up the ridge from either parking area up to the top (3 on map). Look for a broken off burned pine snag about 20 feet high and start your descent there dropping slightly off the west side of the ridge center then slowly veer back towards the middle of the ridge. A visible trail is starting to take shape down this ridge although it doesn't appear until you get down the hill about 50-100 feet. Halfway down this ridge you will encounter a small rock outcropping that you will have to scramble over or around for about 20 feet or so. After scrambling over the rock outcropping the trail shifts slightly to the east side of the ridge center maybe 10-20 feet. At the northernmost end of the saddle (4 on map) the Northpark trail is barely visible and pretty much gone. For Southpark contour to the left (several trails are forming across this hill) below the 8686' elevation peak for 200 yards or so looking for another saddle (5 on map). As you are contouring, an exposed rock peak will become visible up above and to the west. The saddle you are looking for is on the east flank of this peak. A small ridge of rock running up and down the hill may obscure this saddle from view until you cross over the ridge of rock. Once in this saddle drop in to the north and you will find the climbs on your left, "Sweeeeet" you have just arrived in Southpark. Careful when dropping in as everything is eroding and loose after the fire. Let me know if any of my directions are unclear or if things change so I can update the description. Note: The Northpark location and waypoint is an approximation (marked too far north down the ridge) as I did not physically go there to mark it.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Park:
Southpark   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Unknown (Left Of Kick The Baby)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Conjoined Twin Myslexia   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
Sit Down and Shut Up   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
They Killed Kenny   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Mr Hanky The Christmas Poo, Direct Start   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 50'   
Kick in the Nuts   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 85'   
Browse More Classics in South Park

Featured Route For South Park
You Killed Kenny in red You Bastards in Yellow Tal...

You Bastards 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : South Park
The longest and arguably the best route at South Park, You Bastards shares two bolts with They Killed Kenny before venturing right across a low angle ledge. Pull a series of overhung blocks to complete the first crux and be rewarded with a ledge that allows for full recovery. Continue on easier ground for a few bolts until a nearly featureless headwall is encountered. After ninety feet of climbing it is time for the second and harder crux. Delicately balance your way throug...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for South Park
Photos of South Park Slideshow Add Photo
Southpark Waypoints Degrees Degrees
BETA PHOTO: Southpark Waypoints Degrees Degrees
5.9 towards the left with steep and juggy finish, ...
5.9 towards the left with steep and juggy finish, ...
Headed to crag near the saddle.   Thank you to all...
Headed to crag near the saddle. Thank you to all...
Southpark Trail Map
BETA PHOTO: Southpark Trail Map
Impressive Cairn
Impressive Cairn
The main wall at Southpark
The main wall at Southpark
Short but steep hike out. Recorded to be just a ha...
Short but steep hike out. Recorded to be just a ha...

Comments on South Park Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2014
By jbak
May 30, 2007
On the topo map that shows the top of Mt. Lemmon, look for "Lemmon Spring" and then look a bit north to Peak 8686.(www.dot.co.pima.az.us/gis/maps/mapguide...arizona... works too)

Just NW of Peak 8686 are some packed isolines. That is South Park. Just W of Peak 8686 is a little peaklet. There is a steep, north-descending gully between these two. I think that is where you drop down to the climbs.

East of Peak 8686 is the hairpin turn in the summit road. If you park ABOVE the hairpin at about elev 8500 and then do a south-sweeping contour around to 8686 you will do about as well as you can. Total walking distance should be less than a mile but it will feel longer. It may take a bit of looking and it was possible to get lost even before the fire. It's a beautiful, very isolated area. A part of Mt Lemmon that few people ever see. And there are some good routes there too.
By jbak
Jun 12, 2007
okayyyyyyyyyyyyyy..........try this...

Google Earth:

Park at: 32deg 27' 08" N, 110deg 47' 00" W

Crag at: 32deg 27' 00" N, 110deg 47' 29" W

Swing south between these points maintaining more or less constant elevation.
By Jimbo
Jun 13, 2007
Don't feel bad. Your not the only one to wonder about in search of this crag. My 1st time out we wondered for 2 hours or so but we were rewarded with finding the friggin thing.
My advice. Hook up with someone who's been there or use the GPS.
If I wasn't going to the Needles for 2 weeks I'd take you there.
Here's the deal. Park like you would to get to the Reef. But the trail busts up the road cut across from the big pull out on the left side of the road where the rusting ski lift parts are. Not from the pull out on the right side of the road just past the guard rail. Follow this trail up the ridge and look for a bend to the right at a big dead tree. (About 300 hundred yards up the hill) You will soon be skirting the steep hill side, with the canyon that runs underneath the Reef, on your right. Follow this around until your at the saddle that's on the opposite side of this canyon. From this saddle there will be a trail that busts sharply right. That goes to North park. Keep heading along the ridge past the saddle on a trail that will take you to South park. You won't see the crag until you start heading steeply down hill, in a hundred yards or so it will appear on your left. The trail goes under all the climbs.

Good luck.
By WSnyder
Jun 29, 2007
I took a trip out to Southpark and I listed Southpark as a new area with some current (as of 06/30/07) directions and maps. Basically the old trail sucks ass! Follow the new directions and maps posted under Southpark and you should get there with minimal effort.
By WSnyder
Jul 1, 2007
Someone recently has drilled but not fully bolted a new route on the arete just right of the "Focus on the Candy" dihedral.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 1, 2007
Longitude works if you put '-' sign in front of it.
By WSnyder
Jul 1, 2007
Thanks. Added the negative to longitude so the aerial photo link works properly now.
By lamina
Jul 1, 2007
Thanks for making the maps and post the new direction. South Park almost became a once-in-my-life-time experience if not for the new way to get there. I am looking forward to go back there soon!
By jbak
Jul 2, 2007
Snyderman, it looks like you could save time, distance and elevation gain/loss by parking up higher and intercepting the trail further south. What do you think ? How were the temps ?
By WSnyder
Jul 2, 2007
I thought about parking higher next time but the upper parking would be farther away from the ridge high point and I don't know if any other pullouts exist on that narrow road going to the top. I was too tired and hungry to check it out when we got back to the car. EFR would know and maybe he will comment. I parked at the regular area because we were going in on the old trail. If there is alternative parking higher before the parking lot at the top that would certainly be better. Temps were good, a little warm before the sun went over the ridge but great after that. It wasn't very comfortable hanging out because of all of the erosion and anywhere it was flat enough to sit or nap was dirty and ash covered.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 3, 2007
SQII lists a bolted 5.8 as the first route, this route is not bolted, or is only partially bolted.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2007
Yeah, that first route sort of confuses things when you start down the hill. Looks like someone's been out there recently putting up the route (which looks like it might be fun when finished). Once you get down to the alcove where "Kick the Baby" and the others start it's pretty easy to figure out which climb is which.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Jul 9, 2007
I got out there by parking at the summit parking lot (same as for Rap Rock etc.), walking up to the observatory then down ridges all the way.

Seems like a valid alternative approach. It helped to have the coordinates of my goal on the GPS.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2007
New directions from farther up the road: Go past the hairpin turn where you would normally park. The road goes through two right curves. On the straight before the road turns left there is a dirt area on the left side to park. On the right side of the road is a bit of a trail leading up the hill. (There is currently a cairn up at the top.) Head up and left from the road to the top of the ridge. Go left along the ridge and you can pick up a faint trail going around the right side of a knoll. Just past this is the tangle of burned trees in the directions above. A faint but followable trail goes right and down to the saddle and takes you to the crag. This took 15-20 minutes off the approach.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 6, 2007
Some further comments on getting there from the new parking area:

Once you get up off the road, from the cairn you only go left for about 100 feet before turning right and booking it pretty much straight up the hill to the ridge. Once you get to the ridge, you will see the large rock outcropping way down and off in the distance to the west. The first time I saw these rocks I thought they couldn't possibly be it because they looked so far away, but once you head down off the ridge you'll be there in about 25 minutes.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2010
This area is a real gem with unique climbing and cool temps. It goes into the shade around 11.30am and will be cool even on the hottest days. My understanding of the routes from left to right (numbers correspond to STLII):

1--. Blame Canada (11c) Short, overhung bolted crack; left route on platform.
1-. Sit Down And Shut Up (10d) Right route on platform.
1. Strike & Slip (8) Climbs arete before trending left for last few bolts.
2. Focus On The Candy (5.8, R/X, Gear)
2+. Unknown (10a?) Shares anchors with Strike & Slip.
3. Kick The Baby (5.9)
4. You Will Respect My Authorti (10a) Starts with pulling small roof; finishes on Simultaneous Lovin'.
5. Simultaneous Lovin' (11a)
6. Crack Whore Monthly (7, Gear) Open book leads to low angle bulges.
7. Southpark (10b/c)
7+. Conjoined Twin Myslexia (10d)
8. They Killed Kenny (11a)
9. You Bastards (11c) Shares two bolts with They Killed Kenny before trending right.
10. Mister Hankey The Christmas Poo - Indirect (10d) Crosses right angling platform 3 or 4 bolts in.
10+. Mister Hankey The Christmas Poo - Direct (11b,12b?) Blocky moves to ledge; continue past the rainy day anchors for harder climbing.
11. Scuzzlebutt (12a)
12. Kick In The Nuts (11c)
12+. Unknown (11d)

A couple of notes...
  • I have never figured out exactly where 2 resides.
  • 10+ may also be known as "No Kitty, Bad Kitty". It shares a single bolt with the indirect variation. There are two sets of anchors with the higher anchors being significantly harder to reach.

Hope this helps. Please correct any errors.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2010
what's the name of the climb that has the chicken wire stuffed in the crack to keep the birds out?
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2010
I believe "Mister Hankey... Indirect" and "Kick In The Nuts" end at the chicken wire / guano factory.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 14, 2010
Just got back from a short day. Did the first three routes from the left. Two start up on a bench and climb a short but steep orange face. Neither of these are as good as the routes on the lower part of the crag but if you have done the others or need a pumpy warm-up these will work. The left most one, which is a short section of overhanging crack was more challenging than the next one to the right. The right hand one has a really fun finish. Also did the one that climbs the low angle arete right of neat looking low angle corner. The start and finish are interesting. This climb ends at the same anchors as the next one to the right. A nice moderate addition to this crag.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 4, 2011
(7+) I originally called it 10d/11a but could be 10c if people think so. I always had difficulty getting the shelf after the low crux. I was conflicted between naming it "Chocolate Salty Balls" and "Conjoined Twin Myslexia".

I hope someone has enjoyed this route. Other than some of the grimy part at the start it should be pretty clean and fun. I always thought it would be cool to start on Southpark and finish on this route.
By jaspur
From: tucson,az
Aug 27, 2014
Just one more note on the parking beta from Scott tuckers comment. The parking spot is exactly .8 mile from the gate at the ski area. Trails pretty obvious from across the road. Although after all the rain we've had this year it's pretty overgrown. One of my favorite crags on the lemmon