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Great long crack and face climb with a tenuous 5.11 crux that is so much more fun if you just yard on the 3rd bolt. With that single point of aid, the climb is a super fun, varied 5.9/10a. Note: the 2nd bolt is not really needed now, but on the ground-up FA, this bolt was placed from a sloper that turned out to be the top of a lodged block that we trundled, leaving a bomber jug and a far easier mantle. If you clip it, then once the 3rd is clipped, unclip the 2nd to reduce rope drag.
Around the arete left of the left start of Rites of Spring, climb a corner past a bush for 40' until you can make a fingertip traverse right (huge stem if you're tall) to a flake hand crack. Take this to a bolt, move right (hidden bolt), mantle to 3rd bolt. Yard on this to a huge edge, and take the ever-widening crack to the top.
Pro to 3.5", 3 bolts, double pro 1-3". Include thin cams. 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks, rap twice with single 60m rope (to the anchor of Friendly Faces Everywhere). An optional 4.5" piece can be used near the top.
|By C Miller|
Oct 5, 2007
If this route goes all free shouldn't the rating reflect that with a note you can "yard on the 3rd bolt" to make it 5.9+ AO, especially since 5.11 isn't so difficult (relatively speaking)?
|By Neil Kauffman|
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
This is a great route! Needs a little more traffic to clean up some exfoliation and veg, but definitely worthy.
|By Bryan G|
Aug 28, 2011
Is there a second pitch to this climb? I recall seeing some bolts up an arete to the left of the anchor. I think a couple of the bolts might have been missing hangers.
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Good crack climbing with a tricky face crux. I'm suprised this doesn't get climbed more.
|By Mr Snrub|
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I don't know why you'd wanna skip the crux move, I think that's the most exciting part of the route. Fun dyno in between good crack climbing.