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Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 653 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This climb is a massive right-trending flake and corner system, perhaps 50m uphill from the bolted routes Slab Left and Slab Right.
The route's length is made longer by the fact that the flake system continuously leans strongly right. It is mostly a crack, but climbs much of its length like a juggy hands-traverse.
I did not place any gear on this but found it likely that the route would take mostly solid gear from 2-3.5" along its length.
To get down, downclimb the route or walk up the ridge 20m to the raps above 'Move Like A Stud' or if that is missing or in disrepair, downclimb the 4th class descent even higher.
The route's length is made longer by the fact that the flake system continuously leans strongly right. It is mostly a crack, but climbs much of its length like a juggy hands-traverse.
I did not place any gear on this but found it likely that the route would take mostly solid gear from 2-3.5" along its length.
To get down, downclimb the route or walk up the ridge 20m to the raps above 'Move Like A Stud' or if that is missing or in disrepair, downclimb the 4th class descent even higher.
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