Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Angel's Landing
Select Route:
Days of No Future 
Lowe Route 
Lucifer's Ladder 
Mostly American 
Northeast Buttress 
Prodigal Sun 
South East Butress 
South of Heaven 

South of Heaven 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A4+

   
Type:  Aid, 6 pitches, Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A4+ [details]
FA: Flyn Brian McCray, Kurt "Burt" Arend, & Ammon McNeely
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,138
Submitted By: Kurt Burt on Jul 11, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Portaledge belay top of pitch 3
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the more obvious routes on the wall, all the way to the right about 200 ft right of Days of no Future, yes up the big ugly flake, just blank for the first 100 feet or so. Well Ammon hooked up and to the leaning ramp, very heading pitch so beware. Great nailing, some expando, goo free climbing and the "maw" is really not bad at all. The last aid pitch is almost all hooks w/ some bolts and a ledge fall if you blow it. The final pitch I got lost in the dark and ended up in no mans land, untied from the rope (holding a small bush) and they pulled the rope back to them. Ammon relead the pitch (over to the right) and kindly dropped me a rope, thanks man. link to story www.rocknclimb.com/heaven.html


Location 

200 feet right of Days of No Future up the big flake


Protection 

60M ropes
1 set nuts
2 sets of camalots to #3
1 ea 4-5 (old)
1 ea kb
1 ea LA
8 Beaks
All hooks



Comments on South of Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -