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Slatanic Area
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Devil's Advocate T 
South of Heaven S 
Witch Hunt T 

South of Heaven 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Gilje and Mike Lechlinksi, 1990
Page Views: 2,000
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03

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Description 

This amazing line tackles the right-hand arete of a large block deep in the upper reaches of Rattlesnake Canyon. Those who venture out to this area will be rewarded with one of the most asthetic and spectacular lines in Joshua Tree.

A start in some cracks with fixed pins lead out right to the arete proper where bolts protect technical and balancy arete climbing.

Protection 

2 fp, 6 bolts, 1 bolt anchor


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By C Miller
Administrator
May 5, 2003

Great album too.
By RTM
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I would agree that this is one of THE most spectacular lines in Josh, and one of the hardest to find. My hamstring was hammed for a week after that one.
By Vernon Stiefel
May 5, 2003

One of the fixed pitons had disintegrated and I pulled it out of the crack when I climbed the route on TR. It is easy to protect the lower crack portion with TCU's on lead.
By Blitzo
Sep 24, 2006

I love that album! Slayer's KILLER!
The route is too hard for me, but I would like to photograph someone on it.
By RTM
Mar 27, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The guide says the best way to this route is through Valley of the Kings, maybe if you're already there. If you're going directly to this wall, the best thing to do is to barrel straight up the mountain behind the Bulkhead. This approach is much shorter and involves less boulder hopping.
By Muff
Nov 28, 2011

Easily approached by taking the wash directly underneath the Bulkhead and then heading directly to the Bulkhead. Break left of the Bulkhead and head straight up the hillside towards the dark brown chossy formations at the summit of the hill. Head over the "saddle" onto a flat area and you should see the prominent Slatanic formation at the top of the gulley. Amazing formation with superb rock. 45+ mins if approached correctly.

If attempting to set up a TR by approaching the top of the formation be aware of the single manky bolt that gets you to the South of Heaven anchor. A 2nd bolt up there would be a prudent idea.
By Drewsky
Dec 30, 2012

Agree that the approach via the Bulkhead is probably easiest but be careful not to overshoot the correct saddle (don't go too far up the hill). We probably added an extra hour or so because of this mistake. Also, there is a slung crispy patina flake 'backing up' the single bolt anchor as of 12/12, so no worries! :P
By Josh Janes
Apr 7, 2013

The bolted anchor atop the formation was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.

All of the pro bolts appear to be in good shape. Only one of the two pins remain, but the climbing leading up to the first bolt can be sewn up with 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 Camalots.