The South Ghost is general considered the area across the dry riverbed from the Big Hill and south into Devil's Gap. This area contains both excellent ice and rock routes and is worth the wear and tear on your vehicle to have a taste.
Con's of the area:
Camping / Etiquette
While camping is unrestricted in many areas outside the national park boundary, it is imperative to tread lightly in this fragile ecosystem. Please use established fire rings, which are very abundant in the good camping spots. Pack out or burn all toilette paper. Bury all waste at least 200m away from any water source or better yet, pack it out in a ziplock. You're car camping (usually), so there is no excuse to leave anything behind. Some of the sites (at the bottom of the Big Hill in particular) frequently get trashed by people partying. Do a public service and burn their trash in your fire if you're camping in the area.
It is very helpful for climber relations and to maintain the degree of freedom we enjoy in the Ghost if we can leave this area in better condition than we found it, so pick up other's trash you may find.
Sometimes a good 4x4 truck is required and almost always at least high clearance to drive all the way in. Usually a car will be able to make it to at least the top of the Big Hill (85% of the way). Walking from the Big Hill to climbs in the Devil's Gap only adds about 30 minutes of mostly flat walking.
Browse More Classics in South Ghost
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Ghost:
Featured Route For South Ghost
Aquarius WI4 International : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
Aquarius is an excellent route that can be done in one long pitch. 60m ropes will barely reach! The route is straight forward WI4 climbing, and has one bit of vertical ice that goes on for about 5m. As the season wears on, the top of the route gets more and more sun and will melt out first. It can still be climbed with 4 or 5 meters of bare rock showing, and can be protected on the left with a #3 camalot. The bowl at the top of the route is Recital Hall, and you'll be able to see Fearf...[more] Browse More Classics in International