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South Ghost

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Devil's Gap 
Orient Point 

South Ghost 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 3,436
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
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South Ghost looking into Devil's Gap (AKA Lake Min...

Description 

The South Ghost is general considered the area across the dry riverbed from the Big Hill and south into Devil's Gap. This area contains both excellent ice and rock routes and is worth the wear and tear on your vehicle to have a taste.

Pro's of the area:

  • Awesome climbing for both ice and rock
  • Generally solid grey rock
  • Remote Climbs and few crowds
  • Awesome camping
  • Limitless potential for new routes

Con's of the area:
  • Remote, so rescue and cell phone usage are difficult to non-existant propositions
  • Not a lot of moderate rock routes (<5.9)
  • Road can be unpleasant to downright awful
  • The occasional insane off-roader / atv'er / dirtbiker that you'll swear is trying to kill you with their driving
  • Occasional partying folks that trash their campsite


Camping / Etiquette
While camping is unrestricted in many areas outside the national park boundary, it is imperative to tread lightly in this fragile ecosystem. Please use established fire rings, which are very abundant in the good camping spots. Pack out or burn all toilette paper. Bury all waste at least 200m away from any water source or better yet, pack it out in a ziplock. You're car camping (usually), so there is no excuse to leave anything behind. Some of the sites (at the bottom of the Big Hill in particular) frequently get trashed by people partying. Do a public service and burn their trash in your fire if you're camping in the area.

It is very helpful for climber relations and to maintain the degree of freedom we enjoy in the Ghost if we can leave this area in better condition than we found it, so pick up other's trash you may find.


Getting There 

Sometimes a good 4x4 truck is required and almost always at least high clearance to drive all the way in. Usually a car will be able to make it to at least the top of the Big Hill (85% of the way). Walking from the Big Hill to climbs in the Devil's Gap only adds about 30 minutes of mostly flat walking.

The rule of thumb for driving in the Ghost is: When in doubt, get out and walk it first. Having a spotter for more adventurous sections isn't a bad idea either. Getting a trashed vehicle out of the Ghost is not cheap.

Get a high clearance vehicle and head into the ghost. Hang a left into the dry riverbed at the bottom of the Big Hill. Look for the best spot to get in and out, being wary that the stones can be loose and your car/truck can sink into them. Crossing the riverbed leads to another dirt road and some options depending on your destination.


Climbing Season


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Ghost:
Wicked Wanda   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   Devil's Gap : Orient Point - North
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Devil's Gap : Phantom Crag
Browse More Classics in South Ghost

Featured Route For South Ghost
Wicked Wanda, as seen shortly after leaving the parking area.  Walk west a little further, then cut left through the trees.

Wicked Wanda WI4+  North America : Canada : ... : Orient Point - North
As you approach the route, it will be obvious where the crux is . . . at the top! It will be wise to check out potential lines through the top as early as you can.Start by climbing 25m of WI4 ice to a big ledge about half way up. There is a bolted anchor in the back, but it may be covered. Either set up a belay here, or continue on. Depending on the season, the ice and the finish on the second-half of the route will vary considerably. Climb another 30m or so up to and through the overhangs t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of South Ghost Slideshow Add Photo
Stumpland, as viewed on the way out of the ghost. Note the totem pole in the middle of the picture.
Stumpland, as viewed on the way out of the ghost. ...
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