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|Location:||38.8778, -104.88045 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2001|
|Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>|
|re: Had to leave two screws on The Ribbon this morning.||Jon H||6 mins ago|
|Climbing partner some day between 12/26 and 01/02||fernando14||2 hours ago|
|re: What's up with Pro Deal Resoles????||Dan Holz||5 hours ago|
|re: Solo aid on the Diamond?||Jeff G.||6 hours ago|
|re: The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread||J. Ivan Locke||8 hours ago|
|re: Moving to Colorado (from Arizona) early January! Trying to figure out my housing situation. Beta appreciated!||20 kN||8 hours ago|
|Durango to host first youth mixed climbing comp in the US||Steven Groetken||13 hours ago|
|re: Partner for Vail/RMNP Friday||Dave Rone||1 day ago|
|Comments on South Gateway Rock||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2001
Too much beer when I wrote this....
Switch North and South for the entire rock description. Thanks for correcting me, Darin.
By Darin Lang
Sep 6, 2001
|Remember, Andrew - the crack comes AFTER posting, not before. ;)|
By Stewart M. Green
May 23, 2004
In mid-May, 13 Colorado Springs climbers closed off several of the social trails that access the Drug Wall base on the northeast side of South Gateway Rock. The new access trail to the cliff-base is a short path that leads to the base of Crescent Crack. Follow the cliff-base east from here to Silver Spoon and the Slice bouldering area. The deeply cut trails below Silver Spoon were filled in with brush and rocks. Do not use these old trails so they can rehabilitate.
The Colo Spgs Park & Rec Dept wants less trails to access this and other climbing areas in the Garden. The trails will be designated with city signage in the future. Look for new access trails to the west side of South Gateway, including West Point Crack and Credibility Gap, as well as marked trails to the Finger Face and Cowboy Book Crack area.
If you are interested in giving some energy back to the climbing community, please contact me to get on the mailing list for the next Garden Climber Trail Day.
By Joel Bier
Sep 9, 2004
|Does anybody know anything about the climb just right of the first pitch of West Point Crack? The line ascends an overhang and then up a fairly easy jug section to another steep crimpy section before pulling a final set of flakes to the single piton anchor - 4 bolts + the piton and link anchor.|
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 24, 2008
Joel, it sounds like you're referring to the Indian Head route, which continues above the piton, hugging basically the left side of the white rock where the white rock meets the red rock. The upper portion climbs up sort of a groove, which you can see from below. The route is named after the formation of the Indian Head which is formed by the white rock, and shows the profile of an Indian looking to the north - obvious if looking from a distance. FA was done by Steve Hong, Ed Webster, and Earl Wiggins in the '70s. The climb has probably seen few ascents as the upper portion looks quite loose.
The bottom of this climb is also shared by the Pipe Route, which traverses right at the top of the first flake, belays on top of a pillar, then takes a second pitch up to the saddle in the white rock. I'll add this route description to the database.