BETA PHOTO: West side of South Gateway Rock. Climbing Credibi...
The large rock formation just north of North Gateway Rock is called South Gateway Rock. There is a lot of good and very varied climbing here. The Drug Wall stays in the shade most of the time and has one easy and several hard slab routes of very high quality. There are also good easy to hard crack climbs up to 3 pitches long, and a nice toproping area.
Walk past North Gateway Rock from the main parking area. South Gateway is the very large rock formation just across the paved trail.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Gateway Rock:
This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Crescent Corner will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route works its way up blocky roofs on the right side of the wall.I have actually never done the second pitch of this climb. Probably not many have, it is loose and follows the seam up to the anchors for [[R...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
In mid-May, 13 Colorado Springs climbers closed off several of the social trails that access the Drug Wall base on the northeast side of South Gateway Rock. The new access trail to the cliff-base is a short path that leads to the base of Crescent Crack. Follow the cliff-base east from here to Silver Spoon and the Slice bouldering area. The deeply cut trails below Silver Spoon were filled in with brush and rocks. Do not use these old trails so they can rehabilitate.
The Colo Spgs Park & Rec Dept wants less trails to access this and other climbing areas in the Garden. The trails will be designated with city signage in the future. Look for new access trails to the west side of South Gateway, including West Point Crack and Credibility Gap, as well as marked trails to the Finger Face and Cowboy Book Crack area.
If you are interested in giving some energy back to the climbing community, please contact me to get on the mailing list for the next Garden Climber Trail Day.
Does anybody know anything about the climb just right of the first pitch of West Point Crack? The line ascends an overhang and then up a fairly easy jug section to another steep crimpy section before pulling a final set of flakes to the single piton anchor - 4 bolts + the piton and link anchor.
Joel, it sounds like you're referring to the Indian Head route, which continues above the piton, hugging basically the left side of the white rock where the white rock meets the red rock. The upper portion climbs up sort of a groove, which you can see from below. The route is named after the formation of the Indian Head which is formed by the white rock, and shows the profile of an Indian looking to the north - obvious if looking from a distance. FA was done by Steve Hong, Ed Webster, and Earl Wiggins in the '70s. The climb has probably seen few ascents as the upper portion looks quite loose.
The bottom of this climb is also shared by the Pipe Route, which traverses right at the top of the first flake, belays on top of a pillar, then takes a second pitch up to the saddle in the white rock. I'll add this route description to the database.