Sport, trad, and bouldering are all found at this rock, with potential for new routes in each category. The rock is massive granite, which can be crumbly in places but is overall of fine quality. Crystals and sharp edges can be somewhat hard on your tips. Granite Beach
and other routes with Southern exposure catch a lot of sun and can be a warm hang on mid-winter days. Electric Sky
gets less direct sun. The preferred descent from the summit is the 3rd class route on the NW side of the rock. No known access issues. The first pitch of Granite Beach
is a classic 80' sport line (12a) here. Do this and you'll want to come back!
The South formation is over 160 feet tall and is at approximately 7884' elevation. See the directions for the Pinewood Rock Area for driving and trail information to the saddle between the two formations (N 40 deg. 15.630 min., W 105 deg. 22.259 min.).
From this saddle, the face of the South Formation that presents itself contains the route Electric Sky
, beginning approximately 40' off the ground near a pine tree. This face also contains three scrambling ascent / descent routes of varying difficulty. The obvious gully is 4th class, but beware of the chockstone halfway up (if still there), which is crumbly and dangerous. A short hike to the left of this gully is a recommended 3rd class route to the summit of the South Formation. From there, one can descend still on 3rd class terrain to the base of Electric Sky
. It is also possible (lower 5th class) to climb directly up to the pine tree at the base of Electric Sky
. Routes on the SW face of the South Formation (Granite Beach
, etc.) start from the ground and are easily approached.
Weather station 10.0 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For South Formation
Lima Bean 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: ... : South Formation
This is a nice route. The upper section climbs a narrow (2-4") quartz dike almost like a ladder on incut but smooth holds. The climbing up this feature is unique, fun, and of 5.10 difficulty. The crux of the climb comes lower, moving past the 2nd bolt. While the lower crux is also fun, the rock quality is less good. Beware of crumbly smears. The start is easily located just to the left of the classic Granite Beach, on the S.W. face, at ground level....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for South Formation
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