Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,234 ft
GPS: 44.20878, -109.55535
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 148,553 total · 672/month
Shared By: Alan Searcy on Jan 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jim Clarke, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description Suggest change

Secluded valley southwest of Cody with the Shoshone River running through it. No phones, no lights, occasionally motorcars. A definite alpine feel with a variety of grades to climb. Many times the approach is the crux of the route. Bands of harder horizontal stone provide benches for ice to form on. Much of the rock is crap, referred to by locals as "kitty litter". Rock gear is a waste to carry in most cases, although bugs and angles can be helpful if you're putting up something mixed and you need a mental piece or something that may hold bodyweight. As a rule "V" threads are the preferred method for descent, occasionally bolts or a slung tree. Typical ice climbs may be 100m to 300m (or longer) in length interrupted by steps of creek walking between pitches.

Getting There Suggest change

From Cody take Hwy 291 (South Fork Road) to the South Fork, about 45 minutes. Bison Willy's at the mouth of the Canyon is no longer an option for sleeping closer to the ice. Hotel it in town or sleep in the dirt at the Deer Creek Campground a couple of miles into the canyon.

Check out Cold Fear for details on current conditions and lodging. For route info, get your hands on the old Cozzens guide or the new Winter Dance book (Joe Josephson) with all the details.

CalTopo Map containing most climbs in the South Fork

Accomodations

Suggest change
A great place to stay to climb Cody/Southfork Ice is the Double Diamond X Ranch. It's located 40 miles from Cody and only 2-3 miles from the ice, and is the only facility out there. Staying at DDX Ranch not only reduces the commute but reduces your chances of nailing one of thousands of deer, skidding off the road, falling asleep at the wheel after a long day, driving to or from town in the dark, and maybe getting a DUI. ddxranchwyoming.com
Their bunkhouse has 2 rooms that each have, table, chairs, refrigerator, microwave, toaster oven, hot plate, and 2 each showers, sinks, toilets. Beds are covered single beds, so bring your own sleeping bag.
This used to be an AAC Hut, but the new owners give 10% off to AAC members on the $39/nite rate.

61 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Fork Shoshone (Ice) Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+
 110
Mean Green
Trad, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
WI5
 61
Moonrise
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4
 67
The Moratorium
Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
WI4
 105
High on Boulder
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5-6
 75
Broken Hearts
Ice, Alpine 9 pitches
WI3+
 47
The Main Vein
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI4
 46
Cabin Fever
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5
 23
The Pillar of Pain
Ice, Alpine
WI4+
 46
Spyin' 'n Flyin'
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI5+
 22
Bitches Brew
Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
WI4
 26
Smooth Emerald Milkshake
Ice, Alpine
WI4
 50
Sendero Illuminoso
Ice, Alpine
WI5
 23
Ice Fest
Ice, Alpine
WI5+
 44
Joy After Pain
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI6
 15
Ovisight
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mean Green S Side Routes/N Facing
 110
WI4+ Trad, Ice, Alpine 7 pitches
Moonrise S Side Routes/N Facing
 61
WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
The Moratorium S Side Routes/N Facing
 67
WI4 Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
High on Boulder S Side Routes/N Facing
 105
WI4 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Broken Hearts N Side Routes/S Facin…
 75
WI5-6 Ice, Alpine 9 pitches
The Main Vein N Side Routes/S Facin…
 47
WI3+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Cabin Fever N Side Routes/S Facin…
 46
WI4 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
The Pillar of Pain S Side Routes/N Facing
 23
WI5 Ice, Alpine
Spyin' 'n Flyin' S Side Routes/N Facing
 46
WI4+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Bitches Brew N Side Routes/S Facin…
 22
WI5+ Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Smooth Emerald Milkshake N Side Routes/S Facin…
 26
WI4 Ice, Alpine
Sendero Illuminoso S Side Routes/N Facing
 50
WI4 Ice, Alpine
Ice Fest S Side Routes/N Facing
 23
WI5 Ice, Alpine
Joy After Pain S Side Routes/N Facing
 44
WI5+ Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Ovisight N Side Routes/S Facin…
 15
WI6 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Fork Shoshone (Ice) »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading