South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon Rock Climbing
Areas in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon
Elevation: | 5,916 ft |
GPS: |
40.18628, -105.33338 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 654,596 total · 2,316/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Getting There
Per Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service (April 2020):
CDOT will be reconstructing US Hwy 7 at some point in the near future . They want to try to maintain parking to allow for climbing access on National Forest System lands, if possible (but not too much parking to overcrowd the area for the future). It is not yet clear which pullouts/parking areas will be used.
Mileage for Crags
With the help and prompting of John Marsella& George Bracksieck, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36 at approximate mileage.
SouthSt. Vrain
Mile 3.1 North: Scout Rock | Scout Slab
Mile 3.5 South: Guard House | Guardian Rock
Mile 3.6 North: Dance Hall of the Dead | Turd World Country | The Shrine of Vanity | Atoll, The | Deadman's Gulch | Deadman's Gulch Boulder
Mile 3.8 South: Mushroom Massif
Mile 3.9 South: Area 51 | Desdimona
Mile 4.1 South: The Wave Twister
Mile 4.2 North: Kids' Wall | Shortcrack Lump
Mile 4.3 North: Backstage Wall | December Wall
Mile 4.4 South: The Cliffs of Insanity
Mile 4.4 North: P. Mosh Wall
Mile 4.45: Whistler's Mother
Mile 4.5 North: The Thinker
Mile 4.5 South: The Sentinel
Mile 4.6 North: Roadside Rock
Mile 4.7: The Ant
Mile 4.9 South: Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs | The Thinker
Mile 5.1 North: The Throne | Infirmary Slabs | Upper Infirmary Slabs | Lower Infirmary Slabs | Left Infirmary Slab | Defibrillator Dome
Milepost 28:
Mile 5.3 North: North Narrows Slabs | Swift Rock | Observatory Rock | Defibrillator Dome | Mortuary
Mile 5.5 North: Vrain Dead
Mile 5.5 South: Mechanical Man
Mile 5.6 South: Rapids Rock
Mile ~6: Wailing Wall
Mile 6.0 South: The Spire
Mile 6.5 North: The Monkey Skull | Rhesus Monkey
Mile 7.0 South: Mystery Rock
Mile 7.0 North: The Hobo Car
Mile 7.2 South: Trojan Bunny Buttress
Mile 7.3: Pilot Knob
Mile 7.4 South: Stewardess Convention Crag
Mile 7.5: Sandbox Wall | The Acrophile
Mile 7.7 South: Arch of Titus | The Coliseum | Roadeo | The Pantheon
Mile 8.1 North:
Mile 8.3 South: The Sundrop
Mile 8.6 South: Hideaway Dome
Mile 9.1 South: The Fang
Mile 9.3 North: Stray Dog
Mile 9.6 North: Violator Buttress
Mile 10.4 South: The Watchtower
Middle Fork of St. Vrain
Mile ~14 south on CO 72: Piz Cengalo
Mile 14.4, south on CO 72 -> "a few miles" East: Piz Badille
North St. Vrain
2.9 mile hike from Johnny Park off CO 66 : Coulson Gulch
Classic Climbing Routes at South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Prophets | Creekside Boulders > River Block |
|
V9-10 7C+ Boulder | |
● Outside Logs | Creekside Boulders > Log Boulder |
|
V10- 7C+ Boulder | |
● Log Cabins | Creekside Boulders > Log Boulder |
|
V12 8A+ Boulder | |
● Handcrack-a-rete | Coliseum |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches | |
● Hollow Man | Coliseum |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches | |
● Sunshine Dihedral | Monkey Skull |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | |
● Upside The Cranium | Monkey Skull |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | |
● The Bucket List | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport | |
● Temptation Arete | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Delivering Dynos | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Crawfish | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | |
● Bun in the Oven | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | |
● Perfect Stemetry | Fang |
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | |
● Botany of Desire | Trojan Bunny Buttress |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | |
● Goldfinger | Fang |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport |
Weather Averages
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